Hunt County Master GardenersTexas A&M AgriLife Extension Service

Allergies and the Gardener

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Allergies and the Gardener by PJ LaRue Smith.

How many gardeners have expressed this sad lament, “I love the outdoors, but it sure doesn’t love me back!”  Allergies have long been the bane of many a gardener, many of whom would like to spend more time in the garden, but when they do, suffer miserably with sinus congestion, watery eyes, and sneezes galore.

But now, the air is cooler, a little rain has fallen, and ragweed, (what little grew during this dry fall) has met an early demise.  A perfect time for most gardeners to prepare for next spring’s vegetable and flower gardens.  Unfortunately, for allergy sufferers who are particularly sensitive to cedar pollen, this time of year often proves worse than all of the others combined.

“Cedar fever” as some call it, is not actually caused by true cedars, but by one of two juniper species.  Juniperus ashei (commonly known as Mountain Cedar) is a drought tolerant small evergreen tree, native to northeastern Mexico and the south-central United States north to Missouri; however the largest stands are found in central Texas, particularly along the Edwards Plateau.

Juniperus virginiana (commonly known as Eastern Red-cedar or Red Cedar) is native to eastern North America, from southeastern Canada to the Gulf of Mexico, east of the Great Plains; and in Texas, where it is most prevalent in the post oak savannah area of the state.

Various locations in Hunt County have both of these species present, which makes the allergy season twice as long for those who are sensitive.  Mountain Cedar, the more potent allergen producer, sheds pollen from November until February; Eastern Red Cedar, no slouch on the allergen scale itself, produces pollen from late December thru March, and sometimes even into April.

General tips for getting through this time period follow:

Outdoor precautions: When driving, keep the car windows up and set the heat/AC on recirculate. Pay attention to pollen counts.  Peak pollen production is between 5 a.m. and 10 a.m., and pollen counts are highest on warm sunny days.  Windy days will drive pollen into eyes and deeper into sinuses.  If your eyes are particularly sensitive, wear large sunglasses or goggles.  A painter’s mask can be worn to keep the pollen from entering the mouth and nose.

Indoor precautions:  Keep doors and windows closed (even on nice days).  Run the AC when pollen counts are high.  Consider the use of a HEPA (high-efficiency particulate air) filter to limit pollen infiltration in to the AC system.  Dust regularly using a damp cloth, and vacuum carpets with a vacuum equiped with a HEPA filter.  Take a shower and change clothes after being outdoors for a long period of time. (This includes your spouse as well.  Even if they are not allergic, they will transfer pollen onto pillowcases, furniture, etc.)  Bathe indoor pets often.  (They go outside to do their “business” and pollen comes back in on their coats.)

For those whose allergies are particularly severe, recommendations include visiting your doctor in early fall to update any treatment plan; stocking up on prescription allergy medication; as well as eliminating male cedar trees in the yard and replacing with good hardwoods (oak, ash, elm, etc.)

Want to know more about pollens in our area?  Visit www.pollenlibrary.com.  One source for local pollen counts is www.pollen.com.  Dallas-based news station’s websites provide pollen information as well.  Stay informed and be sure to follow your doctors orders for a more enjoyable winter season!

Garlic

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Garlic by Byron Chitwood.

The fall planting season is about over.  However, there is still time left to plant spinach, radishes, onion sets if you can find them and garlic.  Garlic is one of the easiest things to grow and a lot of it can be grown in small spaces.  Garlic can be grown the year around in mild climates like we have here in north central Texas.

Obtain some seed garlic which is garlic that has not been sprayed for prevention of sprouting.  Maybe you know of a friend that has some surplus garlic that he or she harvested from their garden.  If all else fails, select some at the food market.  I have had 80 to 90 percent germination from store bought garlic which makes me wonder if that garlic has been treated to prevent sprouting.  Each bud of garlic has from 8 to 18 cloves.  The individual cloves are what are planted to grow garlic.  It is possible to grow garlic from seed but almost all is grown from cloves.  Carefully break the buds apart into individual cloves.  Be careful to not damage the skin on the cloves.  Some of the literature recommends planting only the large cloves.  However, I use all the different size ones in a bud and have close to 100 % germination and they all seem to produce about the same size buds or bulbs regardless of the size of the original clove.

Plant the cloves with the large end down and the sharp end up.  They should be planted in 2-3 inch deep trenches with spacing between the cloves of about 4 to 6 inches and spacing of about 6 to 18 inches between rows.  If you are container gardening, use the four inch spacing between rows and cloves.  Garlic planted in the fall will grow through the winter and be ready to harvest in late spring of the following year. The tops will begin to turn yellow and droop over.  At that time, pull or carefully dig the garlic.  Some garlic growers braid the tops of eight or ten pants together and hang them to dry in a warm and dry place.    They can also be stored if they are left in the ground until the tops are almost dry.  Harvest them in the same way and lay the individual plants out to dry.  Then cut the tops off and store the bulbs or buds in an uncovered cardboard box or tray with the root end down.  I don’t know if storing with the root end down does anything for the garlic, but it looks pretty that way,

Garlic has been around for a long time.  There is evidence that it was a staple in the diet of the pyramid builders and other cultures thousands of years ago.  The Chinese are the largest producer of garlic in the world.  Their production is on the order of 24 billion pounds which would amount to about 20 pounds per year consumption for every man, woman and child in China. The United States only produces a paltry 442 million pounds per year which would equate to 1.4 pounds per year per person.

If you watch the cooking shows on TV, modern chefs are putting garlic in everything except fruit salad and ice cream.  I don’t have enough space to go into all the old wives tales about all the ailments that garlic cures so I guess I’ll just go and plant some more garlic.

Compost

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Compost by Thomas Clark.

If you take a moment to look up the term compost in a dictionary, you will likely find reference to a mixture of decaying organic matter, such as leaves
and manure.  At least that is what I read when I examined the American Heritage Dictionary.

If you have a yard with a vegetable garden or flower beds of any size then learning to compost effectively is a worthwhile activity.  I say
effectively because we are not talking about rocket science here.  This is basically a process of decay that is going on all the time with or without us
being involved.

Only when we speak of a compost pile, we are striving to have efficient decay that does not smell offensive, look unsightly, or pose any
health hazards. It is a win – win situation.  We can dispose of waste that is often sent to the landfill and reuse it as high quality amendment material for
our flower beds, garden, or even yard.  For example, a person can pile lawn clippings, leaves, and kitchen scraps in a pile and let it rot down.  The final composted product, called humus will be about 20 percent in size of the original pile and when used in planting bed will help retain moisture and contribute nutrients and microbial activity.  This will improve productivity.

There are some basic considerations to know.  It is all about ingredients and construction.  Brown stuff and green stuff and water and air make compost.
Brown stuff is generally high carbon content: things like straw, fine wood chips, dry leaves, and dry brown grass.  Green stuff is nitrogen rich material:
mostly fruit and vegetable kitchen scraps and fresh cut grass.  Air is important to support aerobic microbial activity in the compost pile.  Microbes are your little
workers that will process and rot the pile, similar to what occurs in the forest to leaves and fallen limbs.

While livestock manure is a desirable source of nitrogen, to reduce possible health hazards, you should not compost dog and cat
feces or meat products.  Egg shells are ok if you are not having problems attracting animals.  Some moisture is important, but too much will reduce the
amount of air in the pile and it may become anaerobic, lacking sufficient oxygen.  This may result in unfavorable odors.

If the pile shape does not shed enough water a tarp or bin may be used.  If it gets too dry and rotting slows down, a garden hose can fix that.  The different materials will rot faster if
mixed somewhat, so some folks will turn the pile periodically.  A pile on the ground is fine, or you can construct a bin or purchase a commercial bin.
If you have never composted and this all seems mysterious and confusing, do not worry.  The intent of this article is to drive home the concept that composting is easy.  Anyone can do it.  It is just a balancing act of adjusting the mixture of materials with air and moisture.  An excellent source for learning a great deal more about this is the Texas A&M Agrilife Extension website.

Growing House Plants

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Growing House Plants by Marguerite Callahan.

House plants add a touch of beauty to our dwelling places and surely help bring the outside world into our home. People who think they cannot grow houseplants simply have to select the right plant type for their home’s amount of sunlight and the level of care that they are able to provide. House plants have many uses. Plants can be used to add color, accent, and vitality to your home and herbs can be used for both aesthetic purposes as well as cooking. Herbs such as rosemary, thyme, oregano, parsley, chives, and mint are great plants to have in your home. Listed below are some easy house plants to grow. Be aware that some of these plants are toxic.

Pothos (Scindapsus aureus also called Epipremnum aureum) – This hardy trailing vine is sometimes listed as Golden Pothos due to the yellow variegation in their heart-shaped leaves. These trailing vines can be placed in low light conditions and do not have to be near a window at all. Pothos are forgiving if you forget to water regularly, but if you forget too many times you will notice significant yellowing and loss of leaves. You will find that the more you trim the plant the bushier it will become. The stems you remove from the plant can be readily rooted in water and you will soon have many more plants. Pothos is a very popular vine that contains calcium oxalates, which can cause burning, itching, vomiting and difficulty swallowing if any part of the plant is ingested.

Aloe Vera (Aloe barbadensis) – Like most succulent plants, they have limited water requirements. Allow soil to dry completely between watering. Remove new shoots when they are 3 to 4 inches high and replant in their own pots. This plant prefers sun to partial shade. It can cause contact dermatitis and may cause vomiting if ingested.

Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) – Many homes feature Spider plants hanging near their windows. A little water from time to time, a little sun, and spider plants almost always thrive. They’re also easy to propagate. Baby spider plants just grow right on stems off the adult houseplant, and can be picked and potted.

Sansevieria (Snake Plant or Mother-in-Law’s Tongue) – This tough plant is the ultimate drought survivor because of the long sword-like leaves. They are slow growers but with occasional watering (when the soil is extremely dry) and a bright room they will be with you for a long time. Remember that the leaves and plant saps can be poisonous to people and pets.

Select only those plants which appear to be insect and disease free. Be sure to check not only the top of the plants but also the undersides of the foliage. Select plants that look shapely and well-covered with leaves.  Remember that it is easier to purchase a plant which requires the same environmental conditions your residence has to offer than to alter the environment of your home to suit the plants.

Plant Fall Greens Now

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Plant Fall Greens Now by Byron Chitwood.

It’s that time of the year to plant fall greens in your vegetable garden.  Our summer was a long and hot one and it still is fairly hot during the day.  However, if you want a fall crop of greens, now is the time to plant them.  Unless the sky opens up and we get some toad strangler rains, after you plant the seeds to various greens, you will have to “spot” water them several times per day.  Keeping the soil moist is one of the secrets to getting good germination of the seeds that you have planted.  I can tell you with certainty that some day it is going to rain again, I just can’t tell you when.

In alphabetically order, let’s start with beets.  Most folks just grow them for the roots but they have one of the most delicious greens of almost anything that you can plant.  The seeds are actually dried portions of the beet root.  Some folks soak them before planting but they seem to germinate about as fast if you plant them about ½ inch deep and keep them well watered.  There always seems to be some parts of the rows that you have planted that don’t germinate for some reason.  This holds true for beets and almost anything else that you plant in the garden.  If this part of the row doesn’t sprout within a few days after the rest of the row has, just replant in that portion of the row.  To avoid repeating myself, Swiss chard seeds look like beets and the sprouted plants look about the same.   Be sure and plant some chard.  Stems and leaves are very good to eat and they are the hardiest thing that you can plant in your garden.  Some of them can survive the winter and also the heat of the summer.

Another green that is fairly new to our culture is Bok Choy.  There are several varieties available at the seed store.  One has very large leaves and the other has smaller leaves and a whole lot more of them.  Bok choy seeds look just like collard, turnip, broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts and mustard seeds.  They are probably related going back in time to Adam and Eve.  Plant a few of the Bok Choy plants of each variety and you will be pleased with the results.  If you eat in a Chinese restaurant, the green stuff in your soup and other dishes is Bok Choy, hopefully.

All of the greens mentioned above are great if you like them.  They are loaded with vitamins, especially vitamin A.  If you don’t like them, then you won’t be able to see in the dark like the ones of us who consume vast quantities of them in the fall.

Last but not least are turnip greens.  These greens are the strongest of the whole lot.  I like them when they are not so strong and then I go for the roots.  When they are too strong for me, folks that subsisted on them in the depression say “they have that good turnip flavor”.  To each his own, eat more greens.

Bluebonnets

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Bluebonnets by Madeline Sullivan

Everyone loves bluebonnets because they are the Texas state flower and they are beautiful. There are six species of Lupinus in Texas known as bluebonnets, but only two species are endemic to Texas, the Texas bluebonnet and the sandyland bluebonnet. These are the ones that the highway department plants on many roadways for erosion-control and roadside beautification programs. The sandyland bluebonnet was adopted as the state flower in 1901, but because it was not as showy as the Texas bluebonnet, and popular opinion called for the other four species occurring naturally in Texas to be the state flower, in 1971, the decision was made to make all six of the lupines the state flower. Here in Hunt County only the Texas bluebonnet and the sandyland bluebonnet will grow with success.

Let’s make a little preparation before putting your bluebonnet seeds in the ground.  Bluebonnets do not like heavy grasses or wet feet. Select an area that is open to the sun, not too full of heavy grasses and not in a low area that stands in water when it rains. Bluebonnets should not be sown in an area with winter grasses such as fescue or any type of clover. The grasses and trifoliums will be too aggressive to let the bluebonnet seeds establish. Also, though, do not sow bluebonnet seeds in a bald area on which nothing has ever grown. It is certain that bluebonnets will not grow there either.

If the area you choose is full of grasses and weeds, use a herbicide to kill them in mid-September. Two weeks later check the area, as a second application of herbicide may be necessary.  Let the area lay fallow for at least 14 days. After that time, rake-up all the dead debris and make the area as clean as possible before tilling. When you till (a rake will be good), it must be shallow, not more than 1 inch deep. It works well to till in one direction and then till perpendicular to the first tilling. After tilling, rake the area to make it clean and smooth.

At the end of September to the middle of October, you are ready to plant. As you start to sow, combine the seed with a carrier such as masonry sand, perlite, or potting soil–recommendation being a minimum of 4 parts inert material to 1 part seeds. This is to increase volume and aid in even distribution over the site. Broadcast half of your seeds uniformly over the prepared area. Sow the remaining seeds in a direction perpendicular to the initial sowing.  One of the main problems of a scattered showing is not using enough seeds. So, use plenty of seeds to get a good stand of bluebonnets in the spring. After you finish sowing, press the seed into the soil by walking or rolling the newly planted area. Do not cover the seeds any deeper than 1/8 inch. Some seeds will remain visible. Keep the area moist until the seedlings are well established.

Next spring, you can enjoy your pretty bluebonnets.

Salsa Fest Approaches

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MARK YOUR CALENDARS!!! Salsa Fest 2011! will be held on Saturday, October 8, 2011! The educational portion will be held in the meeting room in the AgriLIFE building with the rest of the event to be held at the Heritage Garden next door.

The Wild Asters of Hunt County

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The Wild Asters of Hunt County by Madeline Sullivan

There are four types of wild asters in Hunt County:  the heath aster, the Texas aster, the annual aster, and the meadow aster. They come up in the spring and have their leaves and stalks all summer, looking like a small hedge row along the fences and against the house.

If you do not know how the asters look in the spring or summer, it is very easy to mow them down since they closely resemble weeds.  In August, however, their buds began to grow and by the end of August and early September they began to flower.

The heath aster and the Texas aster have white ray flowers and yellow disk flowers in the center of the bloom.  The heath aster has an abundance of small flowers all up and down the stem.  When grouped together, they make a spectacular show of the numerous small white flowers and the medium green leaves below that grow all the way to the ground.

The Texas aster has a larger flower than the heath aster and is some taller.  It likes shady places under tall trees with loamy, rich, well-drained clay soils, and when other flowers are at the end of their season, the Texas aster blooms are still alive and inviting around the yard area.

The meadow aster is large and showy, with purple or violet flower heads and yellow center disk flowers.

The annual aster, which has ray flowers that are white to lavender or purplish, with disk flowers of yellow, is not particularly showy as an individual specimen plant.  It is branched and has only a few flowers on each stem. When this plant is in mass, though, it is quite noticeable.  This aster is common in lawns and will bloom profusely even when mowed short.

Any or all of these four asters are definitely a desirable addition to your garden and could be planted with goldenrod, mistflower (blue boneset), and gay feather to make a spectacular show in the fall wildflower garden.

Chili Peppers

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Chili Peppers by PJ LaRue Smith

Chiles/peppers are native to South America, and are grown as annuals where freezing occurs. Contrary to popular belief, chiles are not related to black pepper; but are a part of the large nightshade family, which also includes tomato, potato and eggplant.

Peppers, unlike most vegetables, are not classified by folks as simply “like or dislike” by way of preference – there will be some sort of “quantifier” injected into the preference.  Some folks prefer mild flavored peppers with no heat (bell, banana), some like a little heat (poblano, anaheim), others prefer a little more spice (jalapeno, serrano) and then there are the serious heat lovers (habanero).

Capsaicin, the same ingredient that is used in pepper sprays, is the chemical responsible for the heat in peppers.  Transfer of capsaicin to eyes, nose, mouth or other sensitive areas can be avoided by wearing gloves whenever working with the plants, harvesting the pods, or preparing the peppers themselves.

The “heat range” of a pepper is measured in multiples of 100 Scoville Units – the higher the number, the hotter the pepper.  Plant tags on peppers typically list the standard Scoville Unit range for that variety, so be sure to check this information when purchasing a variety you are not familiar with.

Why a heat “range” and not a set number to denote a pepper’s heat?  One might expect the intensity to be affected by water content as is true for garden crops such as melons.  For peppers, however, it is temperature that is central to it’s heat level.  In fact, temperature is key to every facet of a pepper plant’s growth – from germination, to fruit set/maturation, heat level, and longevity.  Successfully growing peppers requires the gardener’s understanding of how temperature regulates growth and production in this flavorful plant.

Germination, for example, can be slow and irregular even under the best of conditions.  Chile seeds need warmth, oxygen, and moisture to germinate.  Higher germination rates occur between 70 and 80 degrees F, while faster germination occurs between 90 and 100 degrees F.  Start seeds indoors 8 – 10 weeks before the last expected frost.  Before transplanting into the garden, harden the seedlings off by exposing them to outdoor temperatures (non-freezing) for increasing periods of time each day.  Transplant when daytime temperatures average 70 degrees F and night temps around 55 degrees.

The key to flower set is nighttime temperature, which ideally should be between 65 and 80 degrees. Fruit set is enhanced by increased sunlight.  However, if night temperatures are above 86 degrees F, fruit will not set.  Some varieties, habanero-types for example, may take 130 days or more to completely mature..

Temperature, as mentioned earlier, also affects the intensity of a pepper’s heat – the hotter the temperature at maturation, the hotter the pepper.  New Mexican pods, for example, ripening at temperatures between 86 and 95 degrees F  will have twice as many capsaicinoids as pods ripening between 59 and 72 degrees F.

Like other garden plants, peppers will benefit from the addition of compost.  A pH of 6.5 is preferred, however, if other requirements are met, a slightly higher pH can be tolerated.  Watering during dry spells, at least two inches a week, is especially important after fruit set.

Pepper plants have few pest problems, produce right up until frost, and are beautiful garden specimens with the variety of color they provide as the peppers mature.  Hot, spicy, or mild – these are fun plants to grow!

If you would like to learn more about growing peppers, come to the “Salsa Fest 2011!” on October 8th at the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Office/Heritage Garden from 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.  Besides the educational portion – micro-salsa garden, peppers, preparing/drying herbs, salsa/relish canning, this event will feature a salsa contest (fresh/canned), vendor tables, roasted chiles, food, door prizes, and, of course, be lots of fun!  For more information, contact the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension office at 903-455-9885.

Plant Stress

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Plant Stress by PJ LaRue Smith

Temperatures in the 100 plus range coupled with no rainfall puts extreme stress on plants in the garden.  An avid gardener often will go to great lengths to save the plants they’ve lovingly cared for over the years.  While such measures can keep treasured plants alive, the gardener, focusing on their plants, will often neglect their own physical needs while outdoors.

Basically our needs are the same as those of the plants we tend – water, minerals, sunlight, and a preferred temperature range.  What does a conscientious gardener do when a plant catches their eye at the garden center?  Look for the tag and upon locating it, flip it over, and read what the plant requires in order to grow into a beautiful garden specimen.  (Too bad we, ourselves, don’t come with such tags!)

Water, for example, is a primary part of both plant and animal.  During the course of daily living plants transpire, and we perspire.  Add excessive heat and the moisture loss is greater.  Fail to replenish the moisture in a plant and it will first wilt, then die.  Fail to drink water at regular intervals and we will do the same.  Helpful Hint:  Freeze a water bottle and carry it outside with you.  Even better, get a drink holder that clips onto your belt loop – no having to walk somewhere to get your drink, plus, the added bonus of having coolness next to your body.  It is important to note that many medications, such as diuretics (which affect the fluid balance in the body) and those for Parkinson’s disease (which inhibit perspiration) can impact a person’s ability to tolerate extreme heat.  Use good judgment, don’t go outside during the hottest part of the day (10 AM – 5 PM here lately) and at the first sign of light-headedness, dizziness, or rapid heart rate, get out of the heat or into the shade.

Minerals are necessary for plants to grow and bear fruit.  In us, minerals such as salt, potassium, and calcium contribute to the maintenance of proper heart rhythm and blood pressure.  These essential minerals are lost through perspiration and urination.  For those on diuretics, loss of these minerals are even more pronounced and increase the chances of succumbing to a heat related illness.  Helpful Hint:  Freeze drinks that contain minerals (Gatorade® for example) and alternate between drinking them and water.

Sunlight for plants is a critical component of photosynthesis, and for us, it aids in the absorption of vitamin D.  But not all plants can tolerate full sun – if so planted, the shade loving plant’s leaves will curl up and die.  The fair-skinned amongst us will turn red and blister (which, for reference, also inhibits perspiration).  Even the most sun-loving of plants will appreciate a little respite from the blazing afternoon sun, just as those of us who turn a beautiful bronze will benefit from the use of a good sunscreen in the prevention of skin cancer.  Helpful Hints:  Wear a light colored hat (keeps your head cooler) and sunglasses when outdoors.  Apply a “sweat-proof” sunscreen on all exposed parts of the body and reapply as needed.

Temperature, as it relates to plants, tends to only address the lowest tolerable temperature.  However, extremely high temperatures can so stress a particular plant’s ability to recover from the moisture loss or intense heat that it dies.  Even plants that have held up well over the years through all kinds of weather conditions may succumb this year.  Just because heat has never been a problem for you in the past does not exclude you from its affects today or in the future.  If you have ever experienced heat exhaustion, you will be more prone to heat related illness.  If you have ever, as has this gardener, experienced heat stroke, you KNOW that “beating-the-heat” means taking care of yourself just as well as you take care of your plants!