Growing African Violets by Sylvia Leeds

Would you like a little color in your house in the winter? Do you like to grow things? Do you have an empty window sill that does not get direct sunlight? If you answered YES to any or all of these questions, why not try an African Violet? African Violets are the perfect houseplant to brighten up your home during the winter doldrums. These little plants are easy to grow in the right conditions and can reward you with a beautiful display of blossoms and healthy foliage if you give them enough, but not too much, attention. Here are some suggestions to get you started.

African Violets require plenty of bright light, either natural or fluorescent. If you choose natural light, place plants near a window that receives filtered light throughout the day, but avoid direct sun. Turn the plants every few days to encourage even growth.

If you use fluorescent lights, give plants 10 to 12 hours of light each day.

There are many ways to water African Violets. The most common methods include top or bottom watering, wicking and self-watering pots. When the top of the potting mix feels slightly dry, add room temperature water. Don’t let plants sit for more than ten minutes in water, but make sure they don’t completely dry out. Watch out for over-watering. It’s the most common mistake people make while trying to grow African Violets.

A regular application of fertilizer helps African Violets develop strength and produce plenty of blossoms. Some fertilizers provide a balanced diet for overall health while others encourage blossoms. Dilute the fertilizer to one-fourth tsp. to one gallon of room-temperature water, and fertilize each time you water. Consider alternating different brands in order to meet the plant’s needs.

Soil-free commercial potting mixtures especially made for African Violets generally hold too much water, so add a cup or two of perlite for drainage before potting your violets. Avoid swampy conditions at all costs. Repot your plants at least once or twice a year to stimulate growth and encourage the bloom cycle. Choose pots that are about one-third the size of the plant. A mature plant will rarely need larger than a four-inch pot.

Temperature, humidity and air circulation each play a critical role in a plant’s performance. Temperatures should remain around 70-75 degrees, with humidity at approximately 50 percent. Good air circulation discourages mold and fungus.

Regularly inspect your plants for insects to avoid infestation. Common pests to African Violets include thrips, mites and mealy bugs. Treat with commercial pesticides according to directions at the first sign of pests.

For more information about African Violets, contact the African Violet Society of America (AVSA), 2375 North Street, Beaumont, TX 77702-1722, 409-839-4725 or www.avsa.org.

Growing Wildflowers by Charles Bomfalk

Wildflowers are becoming a popular landscape alternative by adding color and natural beauty to any landscape.    Wildflowers are generally easy to grow from seed.  However, some wildflowers require more effort than broadcasting the seed on the ground and waiting for them to grow.  Many wildflowers require special soil preparation, temperature conditions, ongoing personal attention and patience. 

Wildflower planting dates largely depend on site location and weather patterns. The planting timetable should be decided by seasonal rainfall rather than by temperature.  Wildflowers can be planted in the fall or early spring throughout all regions of the U.S.  The autumn months of September through December are the most favorable to plant most wildflowers in our area, USDA Zones 7B and 8A.  Bill Neiman had this to day in his article, ‘How to Grow Native Wildflowers.’  “I always try to do what the particular species’ ancestors are doing. The way I got my best stand of bluebonnets was to cast seed out onto the ground in late June when all the other bluebonnets were going to seed.”  “I did not freeze, soak or poke the seeds. They sat out on the ground all summer and germinated when they were ready in the fall.”

Site selection is very important.  Most wildflowers require a site that gets full sun.  Some will tolerate some shade or full shade.  Are there plants growing in the area where you desire to plant your wildflowers?  If the site does not support grass, weeds or other plants, it will NOT likely support wildflowers.  If the site is poorly drained or has heavily compacted soils you can expect poor or unsatisfactory results.  In my own bluebonnet patch, I have a severe weed and spring grass problem that I need to address next spring.  Address site weed problems BEFORE you plant your wildflower seeds.   I plan to use a pre-emergent weed killer in the late winter after my bluebonnets have germinated.                                                        

 

Hanging Baskets by June Morgan

Hanging baskets can add much to the outdoor porch and deck summer décor, but it can be a challenge to keep them looking their best.  Proper siting, basket design and proper watering are key elements of good management.

The best siting is a protected area which allows sunlight from above or the sides such as a deck canopy out of the strong winds which will tear the plants apart.

In contrast to the ordinary solid plastic container, the larger mesh basket is the most visually effective while also holding the most soil and plants. Also, coco fiber or moss sphagnum looks more natural when viewed from below. Coco fiber is a natural insulator against the heat and helps to keep the soil evenly supported inside the fiber liner. Some ambitious gardeners have their baskets made to order from a metal shop using special ornamental effects.

To set up a basket from scratch, start with a fiber layer, then a plastic sheet with holes in the bottom.  Add a soil-free potting mix that includes water holding crystals, then add a slow release fertilizer.  If using sphagnum moss soak it overnight before using. Now, one can get creative with plants. Try an upward growing plant such as coleus and surround it with a vine such as one of the many ivies or trailling  pelargoniums.  Further plant additions can be made by wrapping roots in paper for protection while slipping them through side slits into the potting mixture.

Watering baskets is more challenging than for ground plants.  Quite often, using a hose will simply result in water immediately running out of the bottom. One solution is to soak the whole basket in a container such as a wash tub of water for several hours or even overnight. Another is to fill a large pan of ice and dump it into the basket, insuring a slow melt of water. To care for your baskets during the season, deadhead the flowers, fertilize once a week and keep watered.

Beyond the run-of-the-mill baskets available in big box stores, check out the uncommon local nurseries, seed catalogs, the internet( google hanging baskets), and where ever herbs and tomatoes are available as possible basket material. So don’t settle for just the common offerings.  Put together your own combinations to bedazzle the eye!

Container Gardening by Cynthia Beacom and Becky Wivang

Does it involve a thriller, a filler and a spiller?  No, it’s not C.S.I.  It’s a Container Garden!  Hunt County Master Gardeners want to feature your original container garden at a contest in the Heritage Garden on the 2014 Garden Tour, May 31, 9:00 am to 1:00 pm.  The garden tour patrons will vote for first and second place overall favorites of the container gardens on display.  Cash prizes will be awarded to the top two favorites.  Tickets for the tour are on sale at Steve’s Nursery, The Garden Center, Hunt County Extension Office or from Hunt County Master Gardeners.

Please bring your container garden to the Outdoor Learning Center at Heritage Garden (2311 Washington St., Greenville, Texas 75401) between 8:00 -8:45 am May 31, 2014.  Contestants will register their containers which will be assigned a number (no names on containers please). You may enter several different container gardens.   Garden Tour patrons will vote for their favorites.  Contestants will return and pick up their containers at 1:15 pm after the tour.  The Outdoor Learning Center will be unattended after 1:15 pm.  Winners will be notified the evening of the tour, and prizes collected at the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service office on June 2.

Do you want to make a container garden and don’t know where to begin?   The Master Gardeners have planned a Container Garden Workshop to be held May 10 from 10 am to 12 noon at the Outdoor Learning Center at 2311 Washington Street.  The cost is $15, limited to 15 people, and registration must be made and paid by May 1.  For registration go to the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Office at 2217 Washington Street.  Potting soil, pot, and plants will be provided.

Growing plants in containers makes gardening accessible to almost everyone.  A container garden is a creative outlet limited only to your imagination.  No heavy garden tools are required, and pots can be put on wheeled stands and moved around.  Mix it up because you can create anything you want.  Group plants requiring the same watering amounts, and leave an inch space from the top of the mulch layer to conserve water.

Looking for more ideas for your container garden?  Visit area nurseries, Arboretums, or outdoor living centers to see plants and containers, or enroll in a container gardening class. Magazines and websites are brimming with colorful ideas.  Type in “container gardening” on Google or Pinterest.com and a wealth of photos, how-tos, and examples will inspire you.  Take a field trip through your own home and garden.  You might find that rusty old tackle box would make an interesting container garden with a “gone fishing” theme.  Maybe the kids’ toy box has old dollhouse furniture for a fairy garden, or little Lincoln logs, corals, and horses for a cowboy theme, and rockets and stars for a space mission.

You may choose the thriller, filler, and spiller technique.   Plant a thriller (tall vertical plant  in the center or back of the container, then a filler (bunchy, moundy, shorter plants around the tall one), and spillers (trailing plants that spill down the sides).  It’s fun to hunt for a container, pull together features for your theme, shop local for plants and structures, build it yourself, and put together your plan.

Camellias by June Morgan

On a visit to the Arboretum in Atlanta, Georgia, I stumbled upon an annual judged show of camellias from all over the surrounding deep south area. I was mesmerized by their many varieties, showing quiet charm to flashy allure.  I was almost ready to pack up and move out of north Texas. But undaunted, I researched the possibility of meeting the challenge at home.

Camellia sinensis is the teaplant originated in China. After many tries in several places it finally became established near Charleston. It is still in commercial production but not valued for its flowers. Camellia sasanqua, of Japanese origin and Camellia japonica from Japan, China and Korea offer many varieties of flowers while differing in growth habits and blooming times. Both come in white through shades of pink and red

Sasanquas are usually considered easier to grow than japonicas and are valuable not just for flowers but as an evergreen hedge with some varieties attaining 12 or more feet high. Both leaves and flowers are smaller than japonicas and are faster growing. They are also more cold resistant to low temperatures; however, buds are likely to be damaged if frozen and thawed rapidly in morning sun. Bloom times are fall and winter, so those planted in the fall will give ample time for the roots to become established for winter blooms. Look for new varieties with fragrance and optimal cold hardiness.

Japonicas have taken a greater hold in the south with their winter and spring blooms and more spectacular flowers. The cultivation is the same for both types and is similar to that of azaleas and rhododendrons. They prefer a slightly acid soil, good drainage, and dappled sun with afternoon shade. In Texas, it would be expensive to import the right soil to a large area so a small planting or using containers might be the best choice. Containers can be moved to protected locations such as a greenhouse to accommodate the damages of a too bright sun or extreme cold.

When planting outdoors, dig a hole that is twice the depth and three times as wide as the nursery container. Replace the native soil with an organic mixture of peat moss and composted manure with a slightly acid pH. After placing the plant, backfill with soil so that the top of the root ball is slightly exposed above the soil. Place a two inch mulch over and beyond the exposed roots, then water to a depth of fifteen inches. Fertilize during the growing season after watering the day before and again afterwards. Prune only lightly after flowering and before the next buds form. Cut only dead or weak stems down to the main branches. Adequate water is a necessity, but too much can cause root rot or the loss of flower buds.  Hybrid varieties will not come true from seeds so propagation is best done by cuttings. In late July or August, take cuttings about four inches long.  Remove the lower leaves and dust with rooting hormone powder. Place them into pots of coarse sand and a small amount of peat.

Possible problems can include scale and spider mites and fungi of several types. Camellia flower blight can be treated mainly by rigid sanitation practices including the replacement of mulch every year and getting rid of fallen blossoms(not into the compost pile). Fall blooming sasanquas seem to be less susceptible. Dieback and canker are other serious problems and are mainly treated by fungicides. If problems occur, it is best to consult with a specialist or go to the internet for pictures of blighted plants. But do not be dissuaded from trying to grow these wonderful flowers. The gardener can be amply rewarded.

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Christmas Cactus by Shanna Threndyle

Schulembergera…say that three times! They are the beautiful seasonal plant fondly called Christmas Cactus. Chances are that you have either given one as a gift, received one, or stole a few cuttings from someone who would have just given them to you! You plant thieves know who you are… The blooms are vivid eye catching displays of color, ranging from cool fuchsias to warm orange-yellows.  Scarlet red is always a staple color for Christmas Cactus during the holidays.

Believe it or not, Christmas Cactus or Schulembergera, is not a real cactus at all, having no spines and the stems have no leaves. The stems are flat, jointed and arching, some more rounded on the edges, others, jagged. They are members of the succulent family in which cacti also belong. They grow naturally in the trees and rocks in the coastal mountains of South-eastern Brazil. They can grow up to 12” tall and 18” wide, although I have seen some very happy plants that I would call giants! Because it is a stem plant, it stores water and can survive long periods without water.  Christmas Cactus depend on the shortening of daylight to perform a spectacular display of blooms.

Growing Christmas Cactus is not difficult, but can be frustrating as a house plant if you miss your window of opportunity for the seasonal show of blooms.  The key to keep  from missing the bloom cycle is to figure out which cultivar is actually a true Christmas bloomer. At first glance in a retail setting, every plant labeled Christmas Cactus may appear to look the same. There are differences between the cultivars. Schulembergera, is  recognized as the Holiday Cactus, so they are broadly marketed that way.  But,  Thanksgiving Cactus has jagged, pointed looking edges, and will bloom before the Christmas cultivar.  The Christmas Cactus, having more rounded edge stem joints, needs even  shorter daylight. It waits to bloom,  about a month later, than the Thanksgiving type, and blooms around Christmas. There is also a similar Easter Cactus that will give a good spring display of color. Knowing the differences between each type will solve your frustration when “expecting” your Christmas Cactus to bloom during the holidays.  If you are purchasing one for Christmas, make sure a bud is beginning to form.

Holiday Cactus prefers a bright indirect light, but will not protest filtered light or even some shade. Too much sun tends to cause sunburn on your plant. But, as mentioned above, the shorter days will stimulate the bloom cycle.   Some growers give two extra hours of darkness before sunset, then allow it to have regular light again in the morning. Others suggest to put your Christmas Cactus in a completely dark closet, starting in October, and take it out of the closet ( all joking aside) once you can see the bloom buds forming. Either way, the extra work and  given attention, may mean the difference between no blooms, poor blooms or super terrific blooms!   Good to remember for next year, right?

When in bloom, Christmas Cactus will appreciate an increase of water. Increase water to keep the soil moist, never soggy. Drainage is a must, and you must use potting soil labeled for cactus when repotting. Watering from the bottom is preferred. When the blooms begin to fade, scale your watering back to the normal recommendation of allowing the first two inches of soil to dry   and never let your plant  dry out completely before watering again. This usually means lightly watering every two weeks, but, there are exceptions to every plant environment.  If you notice insects on your plant, a safe remedy is to use soapy water in a spray bottle two times a day. Mealy bugs love the sap and are usually the most common pest for your cactus and succulents. Christmas Cactus, have a natural rest cycle, or dormancy in June and July. During the rest cycle, you will see no growth, so do not fertilize. It is also wise to back off of watering a bit, just enough to keep it alive. Like any other succulent, use a weak, but balanced fertilizer, like 20-20-20, only when you see new growth begin.

With ongoing water concerns today, succulents such as the Christmas Cactus, are practical, as well as beautiful. They are very easy to care for and make great gifts during the holidays!

Bluebonnets by Pat Newell

April and May in TX brings an explosion of color that is unique to the Lone Star state. Our Blue Bonnets blanket hillsides, while fields reflect the brilliant spring sky. It is a display that inspires pride in our state flower and many a photo of loved ones in the midst of that blue and white tipped carpet.

In an effort to share in the fun, it is common to go out immediately and buy and plant seed. Unfortunately nothing will come of that cost and work, since in Texas Blue Bonnet seed needs to be planted in the early fall, NOW, so that the plants will have time to get big enough to establish a healthy root system and survive the winter.
Once it’s the proper time of year, the biggest mistake is just tossing the seed into an area that would look lovely in Spring blue. It’s just a wild flower, right? A simple but specific step by step process is needed to bring results.
Remember, burying the seed too deeply or casually broadcasting the seed over an unprepared area will only produce disappointing results.           It will not do any good to put the seeds in a place where nothing grows, since the seeds won’t grow any better there than anything else would. So if necessary use an herbicide to clear the desired area. Remove any dead vegetation for the compost pile, since it is absolutely necessary for the seed to come into contact with the ground.
To properly prepare the seed bed, rake or VERY lightly till the surface of the soil to a maximum depth of one inch. Shallow soil preparation will limit the distribution of dormant weed seed.
It is helpful to thoroughly mix a carrier such as masonry sand, perlite, or potting soil. to aid in even  distribution over the site. Broadcast
half the seed as uniformly as possible over the prepared area. Then sow the remaining seed in a direction perpendicular to the initial sowing. This gives an even sowing over the entire area. Press the seed into the soil by walking or rolling over the newly planted area.
Do not cover the seed any deeper that 1/16 of an inch. Some of the seeds will remain visible. Once again, planting too deeply will prevent the seed from germinating. It will also allow weed seeds that may not have been deep enough to grow previously get into the soil.
Do not plant wildflowers in clover or grasses that grow during winter (example:annual rye grass or fescues)as this vegetation will be too aggressive to allow the wildflowers to become established.
Following these few basic steps will allow most wildflowers to flourish in spring, not just Blue Bonnets. But that special harbinger of spring many years of delight.

 

Caring for Your Phalaenopsis Orchid by June Morgan

Also called a “moth orchid”, phalaenopsis  are probably the most available orchids in garden centers and grocery stores and are often given as gifts. Relatively inexpensive, they will bloom for weeks with a minimum of care and watering.  However, the blooms eventually dry and fall off leaving a tall bare spike and air roots outside the pot. What to do?

Up until then, the plants have probably done nicely in any indoor area in which the blooms could be enjoyed and the light is sufficient to keep the leaves a bright but not deep green. First, remove most of the stalk by using a sterilized instrument to cut it down to just above the second node or all of the way down. If the orchid came in a small plastic pot, it probably should be re-potted.  Otherwise, it should not require a new pot until every one to two years. Special orchid pots are available with drainage and root holes on the sides as well as the bottom. Orchids like to be root bound so the new pot should be only slightly larger than the old.

To re-pot, remove the plant from the old container, and with your fingers, take out the old potting medium from the roots. Cut away any shriveled, rotten or blackened roots, both aerial and bottom ones. Put the plant into the new pot and fill it in with new potting mixture specially designated for orchids and which can be found in most garden centers. Place in a spot that gets indirect sun with no glare and some humidity. Indoors, a kitchen or bathroom location is good with a pebble-filled tray beneath. In some climates, hanging them from a tree in summer works, but the extremes of Texas temperatures would be sure death.

Phalaenopsis should be fertilized about once weekly using water with no softening agent.  Once a month, drench the pot over a sink in order to leach out the accumulated salts. It might take weeks to see new growth after re-potting. If the orchid is not doing well – deep green or light colored leaves, or not showing signs of a new stalk or roots, try adjusting the location or light source such as using shades for glare or Gro-lights for more light. While an orchid greenhouse can offer a specialized environment of light, temperature and humidity, it will probably limit itself for other uses, plus having the expense of year-round climate control. Indoor orchids can provide showy blooms even in winter and are a joy to see unfold.

If successful with these relatively easy to grow orchids, the gardener might be tempted to try other varieties, of which there are more than 750 genera and thousands of hybrids. Many websites such as The American Orchid Society are available with videos that have much information needed to explore this delightful and rewarding field.

African Violets by Silvia Leeds

Is outside gardening the last thing you want to do these days due to excessive heat and no rain? If so, you may want to consider growing plants inside where it is cool and comfortable. African Violets are the perfect houseplant to satisfy your need for blooms without having to suffer outside in the heat. These little plants are easy to grow in the right conditions and can reward you with a beautiful display of blossoms and healthy foliage if you give them enough, but not too much, attention. Here are some suggestions to get you started.

African Violets require plenty of bright light, either natural or fluorescent. If you choose natural light, place plants near a window that receives filtered light throughout the day, but avoid direct sun. Turn the plants every few days to encourage even growth.

If you use fluorescent lights, give plants 10 to 12 hours of light each day.

There are many ways to water African Violets. The most common methods include top or bottom watering, wicking and self-watering pots. When the top of the potting mix feels slightly dry, add room temperature water. Don’t let plants sit for more than ten minutes in water, but make sure they don’t completely dry out. Watch out for over-watering. It’s the most common mistake.

A regular application of fertilizer helps African Violets develop strength and produce plenty of blossoms. Some fertilizers provide a balanced diet for overall health while others offer a formula to encourage blossoms. Dilute the fertilizer to one-fourth tsp. to one gallon of room-temperature water, and fertilize each time you water. Consider alternating different brands in order to meet the plant’s needs.

Soil-free commercial potting mixtures especially made for African Violets generally hold too much water, so add a cup or two of perlite for drainage before potting your violets. Avoid swampy conditions at all costs. Repot your plants at least once or twice a year to stimulate growth and encourage the bloom cycle. Choose pots that are about one-third the size of the plant. A mature plant will rarely need larger than a four-inch pot.

Temperature, humidity and air circulation each play a critical role in a plant’s performance. Temperatures should remain around 70-75 degrees, with humidity at approximately 50 percent. Good air circulation discourages mold and fungus.

Regularly inspect your plants for insects to avoid infestation. Common pests to African Violets include thrips, mites and mealy bugs. Treat with commercial pesticides according to directions at the first sign of pests.

For more information about African Violets, contact the African Violet Society of America (AVSA), 2375 North Street, Beaumont, TX 77702-1722, 409-839-4725 or www.avsa.org.