Blackberries by PJ LaRue Smith.

Blackberries of the wild type (sometimes referred to as ‘dewberries’ or brambles) are typically considered a curse to those who seek to cultivate the land for livestock forage.  Even the home gardener will struggle with this plant when attempting to tame the landscape into the garden of their dreams.

These native perennials (of which there are ten listed species) can either be ground hugging or upright and thicket forming like Rosaceae oklahomus.  Spread of these plants happens not only via natural seed dispersal, but through the creation of “daughter” plants when the stem tips come into continued, close contact with the soil.  Typically, the white, one inch, five petaled blooms can be seen during April and May, with the dark purple, ¾ to 1” berries ripening by mid-June.  Wildlife enjoy these fruits, but they have little/no value for livestock; overtake hay meadows and rangeland quickly; and will cause access problems if left to develop into large thickets.

Eradicating blackberries from the above-mentioned areas can be quite difficult.  Proper timing of herbicide application tends to be one of the most significant factors in controlling blackberry plants.  Spraying with the proper herbicide (at the proper rate) early in the spring just after the plants leaf out produces better control in areas where these plants are not desired.

At this point, it bears mentioning that these berries are a perfectly edible and tasty treat for humankind as well.  If they are producing this spring, and you’ve not had a chance to spray for control, then why not enjoy the fruits?  (Not to mention it will lessen the seed dispersal!)  After they are done with production, mow them down and keep them mowed until the time next spring when spraying will be more successful.

Cultivated blackberries and raspberries, while similar to the native varieties, have been bred for the specific purpose of human consumption.  Many of the cultivated varieties are thornless, some are not as prone to suckering, and almost all of these hybrid varieties will bear larger and more storage tolerant berries than their wild relatives.

Of the recommended varieties for the northeast area of Texas those with thorns are as follows:  Brazos, ‘Rosborough’, ‘Womack’, ‘Kiowa’, ‘Choctaw’, and ‘Chickasaw’.  For those who prefer the thornless blackberry, the ‘Arapaho, ‘Navaho’, ‘Ouachita’, ‘Apache’, and a relatively new variety ‘Natchez’ (released in 2007) are top contenders.

Blackberries, being part of the Rosaceae (rose) family, do have a few disease issues, namely rust and leaf spot. Insect pests such as aphids and spidermites are common amongst all varieties.  For those who grow these plants a word of caution – the same birds that eat these berries also eat poison ivy berries (as well as hackberry, juniper, etc.).  When picking berries, or working with the vines, pay close attention to the leaves and wear gloves.

A couple of notes on picking.  1.) Wear a latex-free glove on your dominant hand (the one that you write with) to maintain the necessary dexterity for collecting the berries.  On the other hand, use a thorn proof, leather glove to move aside any canes in the way of the berries.  2.) As with most fruit, picking early in the morning will net the better flavored yield.  3.) Get the berries into a cool environment as quick as possible for the best taste and longer lasting crop.

For those of you who love the flavor of blackberries, but do not care for the seeds, use of a juicer can render what is desired for the making of jellies and jams.  (My favorite way of preserving the taste of these sweet, delicate, fruits into the months ahead.)

Blackberries, a Thorny Delight by Diana Sidebottom.

Ouch, Ouch, Ouch!!  If you are a gardener, you know that can mean only one thing;   it’s time to prune the Blackberry vines!  Well, it may actually mean several things…. like you have been sitting on the couch all winter and after a few days of working in the garden, every muscle in your body is screaming, ‘Are you crazy?’   Yes, as most gardeners know, you have to be a little crazy to do this.  After all, you can purchase most of these fruits and vegetables at the grocery store or farmers markets.  But, it is so satisfying to know that you battled Mother Nature and her crazy weather and you beat the odds.  You were triumphant against all of those insects, and diseases.   You are now actually able to reap the rewards of your labor by eating something you grew!   Victory is sweet and so are those blackberries.  But first, you have to know how to prune and care for them, in order to have a bountiful harvest.  So, put on your protective gear:  wear the thickest gloves you can find (preferable leather), don those jeans, a long sleeve shirt, a coat, (a suit of armor would be nice), grab your pruners, and let’s get started.

Blackberries are hybrid of the dewberry.  Dewberries are able to tolerate our high summer temperatures, and are seen growing wild in Texas along fence rows and in pastures.   Hybrid varieties are available today which bear large-sized fruit, have an extended period of harvest, and can be thorny or thornless.

Blackberries are biennial plants.   You need to know this to determine which canes to prune.  Current season canes (new growth) are called “primocanes.”  Fruit is set on one year old canes (last year’s growth) and are called “floricanes”. Floricanes die after fruiting and those are the canes that should be pruned out and removed each year.

Trellising or supports are helpful in harvesting and weed control:   but should be very simple in nature so they do not interfere with floricanes removal.

Blackberries may produce for 15 years, but the optimal production is usually during years 3 through 8.  They grow best in sandy soil, and prefer a pH of 4.5 to 7.5.  As always, test your soil, or have it analyzed for pH, nutrient deficiencies and percolation, then build and amend your beds accordingly.

Remember, fruit production is directly related to primocane growth and vigor.  By keeping your plants their healthiest, they will reward you with plenty of Blackberries for years.   Nitrogen is the most important nutrient and is best applied in split applications, one in spring as buds begin to swell , and then in summer after the harvest.    Keep your plants watered, preferably with a drip irrigation system to help prevent fungal diseases.  Also, apply a thick layer of mulch.

If you only remember one point from reading this article, remember this:  applying a thick layer of mulch is probably the most beneficial thing you can do.   Mulch reduces evaporation thereby decreasing the necessity for frequent watering, and with our current drought, that is a real benefit.    It helps prevent fungal diseases by protecting the plants from soil borne organisms.  It reduces heat stress during the peak of summer.   It minimizes and almost eliminates problem weeds.   As it decomposes, the mulch fertilizes and amends the structure of the soil.   Mulch can be made from anything:   leaves, grass clippings, hay, shredded bark, any plant based materials.

If you haven’t decided which varieties you are interested in planting, go to the Texas A&M website where you will find numerous varieties and details of the characteristic of each.  If you are just starting to garden, Blackberries are probably a good place to begin.  They are relatively easy, and let’s face it, the original varieties still grow wild.  You can’t say that about too many other fruit.  So as always….. happy harvesting.

Edible landscaping by PJ LaRue Smith.

Ornamental landscapes of flowers, shrubs, and trees will often have a few herbs scattered throughout due to their beauty and usefulness in the landscape.  Why not consider the beauty and usefulness of vegetables, fruits, and nuts as well?  Designs that incorporate large proportions of vegetables, nuts, and fruits, are often referred to as “edible landscapes”.

Edible landscaping (as such a design is called) incorporates varying proportions of vegetable, nut, fruit, and herb plantings amongst ornamentals in a landscape.  What are the benefits to this particular garden style that make it of interest to the homeowner?

First, it is easily incorporated into virtually any existing garden style and does not have to be done “all at one time”.  Pecan trees, for example, can be used instead of oak trees to provide shade.  Wanting a tree that flowers first thing in the spring?  Plant a peach, pear, or plum instead of a redbud or ornamental pear.  Looking for an attractive evergreen bush?  Why not plant rosemary (perennial herb), that is not only evergreen, but has flowers and is aromatic as well?

Prefer vining plants? Any type of fencing, be it wood, pipe, wire, or even the lowly cattle panel, can be used as structural support for vining plants such as beans, cucumbers, winter squash, tomatoes, cantaloupe, grapes, and berries.  Pumpkins and watermelon, with their large, bright green leaves, can assist in moisture retention, reduction of soil temperature, and hindrance of weeds over large areas of soil.

Pot culture can also be used to grow edibles – blueberries (in large pots) and herbs will add variety and texture to an outdoor living area.  Blueberries also provide another bonus aside from the fruit and flowers – a striking display of scarlet red in the fall. Cherry tomatoes, with their bright fruits, create a wonderful display when grown in a hanging basket or in a window box.

Second, and by far the most obvious, is being able to enjoy the freshness and flavor of home-grown, fully ripened produce.  Growing one’s own vegetables, fruits, and herbs provides the third, fourth, and fifth benefits by saving on grocery cost, increasing food security, and controlling the quantity and type of pesticides/herbicides used on the foods consumed in your household.

Other benefits, well worth mentioning, include the amazing variety of vegetables and fruits available for planting in the landscape.  Tomatoes, as an example, can be as small as a dime, or as large as a softball.  They can be yellow, gold, orange, bright or dark red, pink, purple, or striped; shaped like a marble, pear, oval or even have wrinkles!

Cost per plant is another benefit –growing from seed is by far the most economical choice, however, young plants (especially when on sale) are equally as reasonable.

Here are a few other ideas and plant combinations for use in the landscape:  Grow nasturtium, violas, borage, or calendula and include flowers in salads; plant colorful pepper varieties (tabasco, habanero, lipstick) alongside flowers; tuck lettuce, radishes, and other short-lived greens into a flower bed; put basil and coleus together in a planter; use yellow or “rainbow chard”, instead of green; plant morning glories and pole beans together; climbing/rambling roses and gourds together; grow clematis up pine trees; and tee-pee style structure made from tree limbs with cucumbers and scarlet runner beans can make an interesting, tasty statement in the landscape.

Lastly, one final benefit that should be mentioned – the joy of strolling through a landscape that is dotted with tasty flowers, fruits and vegetables that can be sampled along the way any time you chose!

Pruning Grapevines by Byron Chitwood.

When research is done on anything to do with growing grapes, the name Thomas Volney Munson surfaces.  T.V. Munson as he was commonly referred to was born in Astoria, Illinois in the early 1800’s.  He graduated from the University of Kentucky in 1870.  Early on he pursued a lifelong career of developing grape varieties.  His first choice of location was in Nebraska.  However, cold weather conditions and insects wiped out his early experimentation.   T.V. had two brothers who had settled in the Dennison, Texas area and he moved to that area to pursue his studies of grapes.

Although Munson studied all aspects of grape growing, his study of rootstocks of grapevines had the greatest impact on viticulture.  He found that the wild Mustang grapevines were resistant to a disease, Phylloxera, which was devastating the European grape wine growing industry.  The European variety of grapes could be easily grafted to the Mustang rootstock and were Phylloxera-resistant.  Great amounts of the Mustang grapevine stock were shipped to France for grafting of their varieties of wine producing vines to the Mustang rootstock.  He was recognized as the savior of the French wine industry and was awarded the Legion of Honor by the French Government.

Grapes like deep and well drained soil in an area that has full sun.  Purchase bare rooted varieties which can be planted in the winter or container grown ones can be planted anytime.   If more than one vine is being planted, space them about eight feet apart.  Plant either variety with one or two buds above the soil line.  Allow the plants to grow the first season without any trimming.  Keep the soil moist during the first year.  At the time of planting, place a stake next to the planted grapevine.  However, do not tie the vine during the first growing season.  Build a trellis with heavy posts sixteen feet apart, depending on the size of the vineyard you plan to plant. String Trellis wires between the posts at 42 and 72 inches above ground level.   With only two posts and three stakes, three grapevines can be planted the first year.  For each additional post, two more grapevines can be planted.

During the second growing season, cut the plant back so that it only has two buds.  These buds will grow into shoots.  The two buds mentioned above will develop into “canes”.  Carefully tie the stronger of the two to the stake.  When it reaches the 42 inch level, cut the growing head off and train two branches to grow along the trellis wire.  Let the other cane grow to the 72 inch wire and repeat the process of training branches to grow there.

The third year is the first fruiting year.  During February or March, trim spurs or hanging branches to about five per side of the main trunk.  Trim these back so that there are three buds per spur.  Each one of the buds will grow and produce fruits.  Be sure the spurs are live and not dead.

This is an abbreviated lesson on grapevine printing.  If you are really into growing grapes, there are numerous sources of information available on the internet or in most gardening books.