• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
  • Texas A&M Forest Service
  • Texas A&M Veterinary Medical Diagnostics Laboratory
  • Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service
  • Texas A&M AgriLife Research
  • Texas A&M College of Agrculture and Life Sciences
Hunt County Master Gardeners
Hunt County Master GardenersTexas A&M AgriLife Extension Service
  • Menu
  • Home
  • Articles
  • About
    • Who We Are
    • Program Overview
    • FAQ
    • Contact
    • Master Gardener Emeritus
    • Heritage Garden
      • Animal Name Bed
      • Heritage Garden Plant Database
    • Hunt County Master Gardeners Shutterfly Photos
    • Junior Master Gardener Program
    • Outdoor Learning Center
  • Events
  • Links
    • Hunt County Extension Office
    • Texas AgriLife Extension Bookstore
    • Aggie Horticulture
    • Aggie Turf
    • Texas Master Gardener
    • Texas Master Gardener Association
    • Texas Master Gardener License Plates
  • Resources
    • Plants for East Texas
    • Vegetable Resources
    • Fruit & Nut Resources
    • Texas Plant Disease Diagnostic Lab
    • Soil, Water and Forage Testing Lab
    • Texas Superstar Plants
    • Earth-Kind Landscaping
    • Xeriscape
    • Insects in the City
    • USDA Plant Hardiness Map
  • CEUs
    • Log My Hours
    • Texas Master Gardener Association Events
    • Master Gardener Advanced Training
    • Earthkind Online Classes
    • Landscape Design Study Courses
    • American Horticultural Society Events
    • Texas Botanical Gardens and Arboreta

Bare Rooted Fruit Trees

January 10, 2018 by jhsanger

Bare Rooted Fruit Trees by Wanda Loras, Master Gardener.

There is nothing better than a firm, juicy peach or a crisp apple plucked from your very own tree.  If this sounds good to you, start now and in a couple of years it can happen.

Bare rooted fruit trees are available in the garden centers now.  They come packed with damp moss or sawdust covered with material to keep the roots moist.  They are less expensive and if planted properly are just as successful as container plants.  Plant when the trees are dormant from December to February.  Three to four foot trees are a good size.  It is important to pick one with a good root system.  Whatever variety you choose, the planting method is the same.

Remove the wrapping, tags, and strings from the root ball.  Remove any broken roots and soak in water for one hour.   Dig the hole in a sunny location.  Measure the depth of the root system by finding the ring that shows color separation on the trunk.  This was the depth of the tree in its originally setting.  Dig the hole at the same depth and wide enough to let the roots spread out in their natural position.  Back fill the hole insuring that all the roots are firmly covered with loose soil.  Hand tamp the soil around the roots as you fill.  When the hole is half full, water lightly to purge any air pockets.  Finish filling with the same method.  Finally, soak the hole with water.  When the loose soil sinks below ground level, add enough soil to make it ground level again.  Do not fertilize when you plant.  A root stimulator may be applied according to the package directions.  When the tree begins to leaf out in the spring, fertilizer may be added.

After the tree is in the ground it should be pruned.  Remove all side shoots and cut the center trunk back by ½.   It will look like a stick in the ground.  This will insure proper growth and successful fruit bearing.  When the new growth comes out in the spring, prune so the center of the tree is open and has a V shape.  Peaches, plums, apricots, and almonds are often pruned to leave an open center.  This allows the sun to penetrate through the opening, therefore more fruit at harvest time.  Keep the open center for the life of the tree by pruning away new growth that invades the open space.  Keep crowded branches and any shoots that are overly aggressive pruned away.  This will reduce the height and will be easier to harvest.

Pears, pecans, and apple trees are left with a main trunk in the center.  Trim away the branches with a sharp V shape to the trunk leaving only the limbs with wide angle crotches.  If the lateral branches are too close to each other, trim to maintain sufficient distance between them.  More information on pruning can be found at http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/fruitgarden/managing-html.

It does indeed take a little patience for your first fruit to bear from your new tree.  It is truly worth the wait for that scrumptious peach cobbler, apple pie, or pear preserves. It just doesn’t get any better than that.

Filed Under: Fruits and Nuts, Trees Tagged With: Fruit Trees

Pecan Grafting Seminar

January 9, 2015 by stephaniesuesansmith

Pecan Grafting Seminar by Sara Allen

Pecan production is popular in Hunt County in both backyard small orchards, as well as larger orchards. We have had requests recently to host a Pecan Grafting Clinic, and are pleased to be doing so on Thursday, January 15, as part of the Art of Gardening Seminar Series.

This seminar will be the first “Art of Gardening Series” seminar for 2015. The program will begin at 6:00 p.m. at the Fletcher Warren Civic Center, 5501 Business Highway 69 South in Greenville.

The speaker for this free program is Winston Walls, of Walls Family Farm in Terrell, TX. Mr. Walls has a long and successful past with grafting pecans, and estimates he has grafted over 6,000 trees. He learned his skill from his family, and is honored to be sharing it with others. His family’s pecan orchard is well known in our area, as well as the trees they graft and sell. He is excited to be sharing his skills with participants in the seminar.

This seminar will be devoted to teaching the various types of grafts, including the Whip Graft, Clevice or Inlay Graft, and Banana Graft. Mr. Walls will also be giving away a tree to one lucky participant. There will also be time for a question and answer session.

If you are interested in learning how to graft, you will not want to miss this seminar. In addition to the door prize, refreshments will be provided. Make plans to attend each “Art of Gardening Series” event this year as well. Programs are held at 6:00 p.m. the third Thursday of January, April, July and October. Watch for details of upcoming programs here, or you may also find information at https://huntcountymastergardeners.org. The Master Gardeners also have a Facebook page (Hunt County Master Gardeners), which we welcome you to “like”.

We encourage children and youth to attend with families. For questions on this seminar, please contact the library at 903-457-2992. Questions concerning the Hunt County Master Gardener program are welcomed at 903-455-9885.

Filed Under: Events, Fruits and Nuts, Trees Tagged With: Pecan Grafting,

Grape Harvesting 101

August 14, 2014 by stephaniesuesansmith

Grape Harvesting 101 by Diane Sidebottom.

Whether you have a few grapevines in your backyard or acres of grape-producing vines, knowing when and how to harvest the grapes is critical to success. Make sure your grapes are ripe before you harvest. Grapes generally mature from late August to late November depending on the variety. Keep an eye on the color changes of the grape such as green to blue or red to white. Most cultivars color up long before they flavor up. Although color change is important, it is not the only consideration. When fully ripe, the natural bloom or whitish coating on the berries should become more noticeable, the seeds change from green to brown, and the berry becomes slightly less firm to the touch.

So, now we have covered the visual cues for ripeness, the best judge of when to harvest your grapes, taste them! Grapes will not continue to ripen after they are removed from the vine, and the longer they are on the vine, the sweeter they become. Grapes don’t require direct sunlight on the fruit to ripen and develop good color. Rather, the amount of light that reaches the plant’s leaves governs the quality of the fruit. The leaves manufacture the sugars that are then translocated to the fruit.

While maturing you will need to protect your ripening crop from critters, after all there is nothing like munching on sweet juicy grapes on a hot summer day. There are several methods you can use to achieve this goal. Netting the vines deters birds, as well as aluminum pie plates hung to twirl in the wind. You can place artificial owls, hawks, and snakes around your vineyard, but I personally don’t recommend the artificial snake, since your husband might think it’s funny to put it into one of your drawers for you to find. Human, dog and coyote scent helps to deter the deer, but it’s hard to get those coyote to stay where you want them.

So, the grape gods have smiled favorably and you actually have something to show from all your hard work. You have properly pruned the vines and cleaned up the grape leaves the previous fall, thereby helping decrease the number of overwintering pests. You have planted coriander or borage to help attract bees. You have planted chives and nasturtiums to discourage Aphids. You have planted Geraniums in and around your vineyard to deter Japanese Beetles. The Rose Chafer Beetles and the Grape Berry Moths are vacationing in California this year so no problems there. You have received enough rain to produce sufficient foliage but not too much rain and humidity to cause Powdery Mildew, Downy Mildew, or Black Rot. And if all else fails you pull out the insecticides and anti fungal and spray like a crazy person.

You, my friend, are ready to harvest. Make sure you have decent weather and grab your sun screen, hat and long sleeve shirt because after all, it’s summer in Texas. Get a pair of pruners that are sharpened, oiled and fit your hand. Grasp the cluster of grapes with your free hand and gently pull the cluster away from the vine while clipping it off with the shears. Leave a little bit of stem on the cluster for easy handling. Place the grape clusters gently in a container and keep them out of direct sunlight. Don’t stack too many grape clusters on top of one another, so you don’t damage the grapes. Continue harvesting.

After harvesting, you can store the grapes, possibly up to eight weeks, depending on the cultivar and storage conditions. Ideally, grapes should be stored at 32F with 85% humidity. If you have an abundance, grapes are excellent for making jellies, jams, juice and most notably, wine. If you intend to make wine, or if you just like gadgets, you may want to purchase a refractometer to determine the sugar content. A refractometer is a hand held device that measures the index of refraction of liquids. A juice sample is placed on the prism, and the device measures how the light is reflected, which corresponds directly to the sugar content of the sample. Wine grapes usually need a sugar content of 22 to 24% or more.

Remember, no matter how well you grow and care for your grape vines, your result can depend on the care and attention given to the harvest. So the next time you look at that $$ bottle of wine, reconsider the complexity of growing and harvesting grapes, and maybe it won’t seem so expensive.

As always, happy harvesting.

Filed Under: Fruits and Nuts Tagged With: Grapes,

Blackberries

June 6, 2014 by stephaniesuesansmith

Blackberries by PJ LaRue Smith.

Blackberries of the wild type (sometimes referred to as ‘dewberries’ or brambles) are typically considered a curse to those who seek to cultivate the land for livestock forage.  Even the home gardener will struggle with this plant when attempting to tame the landscape into the garden of their dreams.

These native perennials (of which there are ten listed species) can either be ground hugging or upright and thicket forming like Rosaceae oklahomus.  Spread of these plants happens not only via natural seed dispersal, but through the creation of “daughter” plants when the stem tips come into continued, close contact with the soil.  Typically, the white, one inch, five petaled blooms can be seen during April and May, with the dark purple, ¾ to 1” berries ripening by mid-June.  Wildlife enjoy these fruits, but they have little/no value for livestock; overtake hay meadows and rangeland quickly; and will cause access problems if left to develop into large thickets.

Eradicating blackberries from the above-mentioned areas can be quite difficult.  Proper timing of herbicide application tends to be one of the most significant factors in controlling blackberry plants.  Spraying with the proper herbicide (at the proper rate) early in the spring just after the plants leaf out produces better control in areas where these plants are not desired.

At this point, it bears mentioning that these berries are a perfectly edible and tasty treat for humankind as well.  If they are producing this spring, and you’ve not had a chance to spray for control, then why not enjoy the fruits?  (Not to mention it will lessen the seed dispersal!)  After they are done with production, mow them down and keep them mowed until the time next spring when spraying will be more successful.

Cultivated blackberries and raspberries, while similar to the native varieties, have been bred for the specific purpose of human consumption.  Many of the cultivated varieties are thornless, some are not as prone to suckering, and almost all of these hybrid varieties will bear larger and more storage tolerant berries than their wild relatives.

Of the recommended varieties for the northeast area of Texas those with thorns are as follows:  Brazos, ‘Rosborough’, ‘Womack’, ‘Kiowa’, ‘Choctaw’, and ‘Chickasaw’.  For those who prefer the thornless blackberry, the ‘Arapaho, ‘Navaho’, ‘Ouachita’, ‘Apache’, and a relatively new variety ‘Natchez’ (released in 2007) are top contenders.

Blackberries, being part of the Rosaceae (rose) family, do have a few disease issues, namely rust and leaf spot. Insect pests such as aphids and spidermites are common amongst all varieties.  For those who grow these plants a word of caution – the same birds that eat these berries also eat poison ivy berries (as well as hackberry, juniper, etc.).  When picking berries, or working with the vines, pay close attention to the leaves and wear gloves.

A couple of notes on picking.  1.) Wear a latex-free glove on your dominant hand (the one that you write with) to maintain the necessary dexterity for collecting the berries.  On the other hand, use a thorn proof, leather glove to move aside any canes in the way of the berries.  2.) As with most fruit, picking early in the morning will net the better flavored yield.  3.) Get the berries into a cool environment as quick as possible for the best taste and longer lasting crop.

For those of you who love the flavor of blackberries, but do not care for the seeds, use of a juicer can render what is desired for the making of jellies and jams.  (My favorite way of preserving the taste of these sweet, delicate, fruits into the months ahead.)

Filed Under: Fruits and Nuts

Blackberries, a Thorny Delight

March 24, 2014 by stephaniesuesansmith

Blackberries, a Thorny Delight by Diana Sidebottom.

Ouch, Ouch, Ouch!!  If you are a gardener, you know that can mean only one thing;   it’s time to prune the Blackberry vines!  Well, it may actually mean several things…. like you have been sitting on the couch all winter and after a few days of working in the garden, every muscle in your body is screaming, ‘Are you crazy?’   Yes, as most gardeners know, you have to be a little crazy to do this.  After all, you can purchase most of these fruits and vegetables at the grocery store or farmers markets.  But, it is so satisfying to know that you battled Mother Nature and her crazy weather and you beat the odds.  You were triumphant against all of those insects, and diseases.   You are now actually able to reap the rewards of your labor by eating something you grew!   Victory is sweet and so are those blackberries.  But first, you have to know how to prune and care for them, in order to have a bountiful harvest.  So, put on your protective gear:  wear the thickest gloves you can find (preferable leather), don those jeans, a long sleeve shirt, a coat, (a suit of armor would be nice), grab your pruners, and let’s get started.

Blackberries are hybrid of the dewberry.  Dewberries are able to tolerate our high summer temperatures, and are seen growing wild in Texas along fence rows and in pastures.   Hybrid varieties are available today which bear large-sized fruit, have an extended period of harvest, and can be thorny or thornless.

Blackberries are biennial plants.   You need to know this to determine which canes to prune.  Current season canes (new growth) are called “primocanes.”  Fruit is set on one year old canes (last year’s growth) and are called “floricanes”. Floricanes die after fruiting and those are the canes that should be pruned out and removed each year.

Trellising or supports are helpful in harvesting and weed control:   but should be very simple in nature so they do not interfere with floricanes removal.

Blackberries may produce for 15 years, but the optimal production is usually during years 3 through 8.  They grow best in sandy soil, and prefer a pH of 4.5 to 7.5.  As always, test your soil, or have it analyzed for pH, nutrient deficiencies and percolation, then build and amend your beds accordingly.

Remember, fruit production is directly related to primocane growth and vigor.  By keeping your plants their healthiest, they will reward you with plenty of Blackberries for years.   Nitrogen is the most important nutrient and is best applied in split applications, one in spring as buds begin to swell , and then in summer after the harvest.    Keep your plants watered, preferably with a drip irrigation system to help prevent fungal diseases.  Also, apply a thick layer of mulch.

If you only remember one point from reading this article, remember this:  applying a thick layer of mulch is probably the most beneficial thing you can do.   Mulch reduces evaporation thereby decreasing the necessity for frequent watering, and with our current drought, that is a real benefit.    It helps prevent fungal diseases by protecting the plants from soil borne organisms.  It reduces heat stress during the peak of summer.   It minimizes and almost eliminates problem weeds.   As it decomposes, the mulch fertilizes and amends the structure of the soil.   Mulch can be made from anything:   leaves, grass clippings, hay, shredded bark, any plant based materials.

If you haven’t decided which varieties you are interested in planting, go to the Texas A&M website where you will find numerous varieties and details of the characteristic of each.  If you are just starting to garden, Blackberries are probably a good place to begin.  They are relatively easy, and let’s face it, the original varieties still grow wild.  You can’t say that about too many other fruit.  So as always….. happy harvesting.

Filed Under: Fruits and Nuts

Edible Landscaping

April 8, 2013 by stephaniesuesansmith

Edible landscaping by PJ LaRue Smith.

Ornamental landscapes of flowers, shrubs, and trees will often have a few herbs scattered throughout due to their beauty and usefulness in the landscape.  Why not consider the beauty and usefulness of vegetables, fruits, and nuts as well?  Designs that incorporate large proportions of vegetables, nuts, and fruits, are often referred to as “edible landscapes”.

Edible landscaping (as such a design is called) incorporates varying proportions of vegetable, nut, fruit, and herb plantings amongst ornamentals in a landscape.  What are the benefits to this particular garden style that make it of interest to the homeowner?

First, it is easily incorporated into virtually any existing garden style and does not have to be done “all at one time”.  Pecan trees, for example, can be used instead of oak trees to provide shade.  Wanting a tree that flowers first thing in the spring?  Plant a peach, pear, or plum instead of a redbud or ornamental pear.  Looking for an attractive evergreen bush?  Why not plant rosemary (perennial herb), that is not only evergreen, but has flowers and is aromatic as well?

Prefer vining plants? Any type of fencing, be it wood, pipe, wire, or even the lowly cattle panel, can be used as structural support for vining plants such as beans, cucumbers, winter squash, tomatoes, cantaloupe, grapes, and berries.  Pumpkins and watermelon, with their large, bright green leaves, can assist in moisture retention, reduction of soil temperature, and hindrance of weeds over large areas of soil.

Pot culture can also be used to grow edibles – blueberries (in large pots) and herbs will add variety and texture to an outdoor living area.  Blueberries also provide another bonus aside from the fruit and flowers – a striking display of scarlet red in the fall. Cherry tomatoes, with their bright fruits, create a wonderful display when grown in a hanging basket or in a window box.

Second, and by far the most obvious, is being able to enjoy the freshness and flavor of home-grown, fully ripened produce.  Growing one’s own vegetables, fruits, and herbs provides the third, fourth, and fifth benefits by saving on grocery cost, increasing food security, and controlling the quantity and type of pesticides/herbicides used on the foods consumed in your household.

Other benefits, well worth mentioning, include the amazing variety of vegetables and fruits available for planting in the landscape.  Tomatoes, as an example, can be as small as a dime, or as large as a softball.  They can be yellow, gold, orange, bright or dark red, pink, purple, or striped; shaped like a marble, pear, oval or even have wrinkles!

Cost per plant is another benefit –growing from seed is by far the most economical choice, however, young plants (especially when on sale) are equally as reasonable.

Here are a few other ideas and plant combinations for use in the landscape:  Grow nasturtium, violas, borage, or calendula and include flowers in salads; plant colorful pepper varieties (tabasco, habanero, lipstick) alongside flowers; tuck lettuce, radishes, and other short-lived greens into a flower bed; put basil and coleus together in a planter; use yellow or “rainbow chard”, instead of green; plant morning glories and pole beans together; climbing/rambling roses and gourds together; grow clematis up pine trees; and tee-pee style structure made from tree limbs with cucumbers and scarlet runner beans can make an interesting, tasty statement in the landscape.

Lastly, one final benefit that should be mentioned – the joy of strolling through a landscape that is dotted with tasty flowers, fruits and vegetables that can be sampled along the way any time you chose!

Filed Under: Fruits and Nuts

Pruning Grapevines

March 21, 2013 by stephaniesuesansmith

Pruning Grapevines by Byron Chitwood.

When research is done on anything to do with growing grapes, the name Thomas Volney Munson surfaces.  T.V. Munson as he was commonly referred to was born in Astoria, Illinois in the early 1800’s.  He graduated from the University of Kentucky in 1870.  Early on he pursued a lifelong career of developing grape varieties.  His first choice of location was in Nebraska.  However, cold weather conditions and insects wiped out his early experimentation.   T.V. had two brothers who had settled in the Dennison, Texas area and he moved to that area to pursue his studies of grapes.

Although Munson studied all aspects of grape growing, his study of rootstocks of grapevines had the greatest impact on viticulture.  He found that the wild Mustang grapevines were resistant to a disease, Phylloxera, which was devastating the European grape wine growing industry.  The European variety of grapes could be easily grafted to the Mustang rootstock and were Phylloxera-resistant.  Great amounts of the Mustang grapevine stock were shipped to France for grafting of their varieties of wine producing vines to the Mustang rootstock.  He was recognized as the savior of the French wine industry and was awarded the Legion of Honor by the French Government.

Grapes like deep and well drained soil in an area that has full sun.  Purchase bare rooted varieties which can be planted in the winter or container grown ones can be planted anytime.   If more than one vine is being planted, space them about eight feet apart.  Plant either variety with one or two buds above the soil line.  Allow the plants to grow the first season without any trimming.  Keep the soil moist during the first year.  At the time of planting, place a stake next to the planted grapevine.  However, do not tie the vine during the first growing season.  Build a trellis with heavy posts sixteen feet apart, depending on the size of the vineyard you plan to plant. String Trellis wires between the posts at 42 and 72 inches above ground level.   With only two posts and three stakes, three grapevines can be planted the first year.  For each additional post, two more grapevines can be planted.

During the second growing season, cut the plant back so that it only has two buds.  These buds will grow into shoots.  The two buds mentioned above will develop into “canes”.  Carefully tie the stronger of the two to the stake.  When it reaches the 42 inch level, cut the growing head off and train two branches to grow along the trellis wire.  Let the other cane grow to the 72 inch wire and repeat the process of training branches to grow there.

The third year is the first fruiting year.  During February or March, trim spurs or hanging branches to about five per side of the main trunk.  Trim these back so that there are three buds per spur.  Each one of the buds will grow and produce fruits.  Be sure the spurs are live and not dead.

This is an abbreviated lesson on grapevine printing.  If you are really into growing grapes, there are numerous sources of information available on the internet or in most gardening books.

Filed Under: Fruits and Nuts

Planting Fruit and Nut Trees

November 7, 2012 by stephaniesuesansmith

Planting Fruit and Nut Trees by DeAnna Hambly

Ah, delicious juicy summer peaches. But wait! It’s November. And most people are thinking about turkey and dressing– not warm summer days and fruit trees swaying in the breeze. True. But because fruit and nut trees have a minimum chilling hours requirement, November is the best time of year to think about planting them. Chilling hours refers to the number of hours a tree needs to spend in approximately 32-40 degree temperatures every year. Depending on what type of tree you plant and the area you live in, the hours will vary.

After fruit and nut trees are planted, it can take several years for them to bear fruit. For this reason, it’s best to ensure you are in it for the long haul. These trees can also require a lot of maintenance. Pruning, pollination requirements, and spraying insecticides–to combat insects and diseases–are some of the considerations you should think about before planting fruit and nut trees.

Here are a few basic things you should know. You already know that November (fall) is the best time to plant, and that because of chilling requirements, the type of climate you live in is important. You also understand that fruit and nut trees require considerable maintenance for their success.

The most important things to consider when planting fruit and nut trees are the tree’s soil, drainage, fertilization, sunlight and air requirements. For the purpose of this article I will use the peach tree as an example. These requirements apply to most fruit and nut trees; however, be sure to check with your local nursery or county agriculture agent for the specific requirements of the type of tree you are planting.

Peach trees grow best in soil that has a pH of about 6.5. Soils with a pH below this will require the addition of lime to the soil before planting the tree. Peach trees also require a balanced texture of soil ranging between sandy loam and sandy clay. Drainage conditions are extremely important as poorly drained soils will result in stunted fruit and eventually disease and/or death of the tree.

Peach trees require maximum sunlight and should be planted in an area where they will receive sun for most of the day. They also require good air circulation and should not be planted too close together or near other trees or objects such as buildings. At time of planting, use a fertilizer high in phosphorous and potassium to ensure sufficient root growth. During the fall, all the trees energy is put into the root system. In the spring and early summer, apply a fertilizer high in nitrogen and water the trees thoroughly.

For best results, choose bare-root nursery grown trees. For peach trees, one year old trees approximately three feet high are best. Look for trees with healthy root systems. A small tree with a healthy root system is preferred over a larger tree with a poor root system. Always purchase disease free trees. Peach trees are self-pollinating; therefore it is not necessary to plant more than one variety; however, some apple trees cannot produce fruit from their own pollen. This requires planting at least two varieties.

Prune newly planted trees at time of planting. Cut back the top third of the tree and remove any thin, weak side branches. This will ensure new growth that is strong and healthy. For more information on planting fruit and nut trees, contact the Texas AgriLife Extension office at 2217 Washington Street in Greenville, Texas.

Filed Under: Fruits and Nuts, Trees

Growing Cantaloupe

July 20, 2012 by stephaniesuesansmith

Growing Cantaloupe by Madeline Sullivan.

The cantaloupe or “muskmelon” is wonderfully delicious and unique in flavor. It is a member of a large Cucurbitaceae family.  Other members of this family include squash, cucumbers, gourds, and pumpkins.  All of these relatives and the melons trail as vines on the ground surface. Cantaloupe is thought to have originated either from India, ancient Persia or Africa.  It grows best on draining, sandy soil with a proper irrigation facility, and requires honeybees for effective pollination. The melon is a summer season fruit and is at its best from April through August.

Different varieties of muskmelons are grown all over the world. The European cantaloupe (Cucumis melo cantalupensis) gets its name from the Italian papal village of Cantalup.  It is lightly-ribbed, pale green skin that looks very different from the North American cantaloupe. The galia melon and the charentais belong to this category.  The North American cantaloupe (Cucumis melo reticulatus) is very popular in the United States, Mexico and some parts of Canada. It is named “reticulatus” due to its net-like skin covering. This melon is round or oblong shaped.  Its flesh ranges from orange-yellow to salmon color has a soft consistency and juicy texture with a sweet, musky aroma.  Honeydew melon has a sweet pale green succulent flesh.

Cantaloupes are low in calories and fats, but rich in Vitamin A, beta-carotene, lutein, zeaxanthin, and cryproxanthin. These antioxidants have the ability to help protect cells from oxygen free radicals and offer protection against colon, prostate, breast, endometrial, lung, and pancreatic cancers. Vitamin A is a potent antioxidant for vision and skin. Zeaxanthin is an important dietary carotenoid, selectively absorbed into the retinal macula lutea in the eye, thought to provide antioxidant and protective light–filtering functions. It protects eyes from “age related macular degeneration” disease in the elderly. The cantaloupe is also a good source of potassium, which helps control heart rate and blood pressure and protects against stroke and heart diseases.  Additionally, this fruit has B-complex vitamins, vitamin C, and minerals such as manganese.

Cantaloupes are often picked and shipped before fully ripening. Post-harvest fruit is given a sodium hypochlorite wash to prevent mold and Salmonella growth. This treatment, however, masks the melon’s musky aroma and makes it difficult for the purchaser to judge a good cantaloupe by smell. Look for one that feels heavy for its size, with a rind that is clean, but not shiny or overly dull, and has no cuts or bruises.

At home, place the melon in a cool, well-ventilated place, and after cutting, keep it in the refrigerator.  Before cutting a cantaloupe, wash the whole fruit thoroughly in cold running water.  In the cantaloupe’s center, there is a hollow cavity filled with small, off-white color seeds encased in a web of mucilaginous netting.  This cavity must be cleaned and the seeds thrown away before the fruit is prepared.  According to size, the flesh can be sliced, cubed, or scooped into balls.  The fruit makes good fruit salad or can be used as a desert, adding ice cream or custard.  Muskmelon is a wonderful treat that should be on your daily menu all thru the summer.

Filed Under: Fruits and Nuts Tagged With: Vegetables

Find Us on Facebook logo

Articles by Topic:

  • Composting
  • Earth-Kind
  • Entomology
  • Events
  • Flowers
  • Fruits and Nuts
  • Gardening 101
  • Herbs
  • History
  • Keyhole Gardens
  • Ornamentals
  • Plant Diseases
  • Recipes
  • Roses
  • Seeds
  • Square Foot Gardening
  • Trees
  • Turf
  • Vegetables
  • Water Conservation
  • Wildlife
  • Winter

Article Key Words

African Violets Asparagus Bag Worms, Bees Birds, Bluebonnets, Brown Patch, Butterflies, Composting Dragonflies eGardening with the Master Gardeners, Fall Tomatoes, Fire Ants, Fruit Trees Garlic, Gifts, Grapes, Grasshoppers, Greenhouses, Keyhole Gardens Late Fall Vegetables, Late Spring Gardening, Leeks Notable Texas Gardens, Onions, Poison Ivy, Poisonous Plants, Potatoes Propagation Pruning Trees, Rainwater Harvesting, Raised Beds Rose Hips Spider Mites, Spring Vegetable Gardening Squash Bugs, Summer Trees & Shrubs, Turf Grass, Valentines, Vegetables Watering Water Wise Gardening, Wildflowers, Winter
Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service
Texas A&M University System Member
  • Compact with Texans
  • Privacy and Security
  • Accessibility Policy
  • State Link Policy
  • Statewide Search
  • Veterans Benefits
  • Military Families
  • Risk, Fraud & Misconduct Hotline
  • Texas Homeland Security
  • Texas Veterans Portal
  • Equal Opportunity
  • Open Records/Public Information