Hunt County Master GardenersTexas A&M AgriLife Extension Service

Landscape Trees

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Landscape Trees by Karla Basallaje, Master Gardener

“I think that I shall never see a poem lovely as a tree.” No doubt you have read or previously heard this famous couplet by Joyce Kilmer, and without waxing too poetic, or straying too far off topic, I agree with the poet’s sentiment. Trees are spectacular plants offering a wide range of size, color, shape and function, making them a great addition to any landscape design.

Before choosing a landscape tree, determine your soil’s drainage and water holding capacity by conducting a “hole-test”. First dig a hole 6-8 inches wide and 2 feet deep. Fill the hole with water and allow the water to saturate and drain. Fill the hole again only this time halfway and make note of the time. Monitor how long it takes for the water to drain from the hole: 15 minutes – excessive drainage; 15-30 minutes – adequate drainage; more than 30 minutes – poor drainage. Use these guidelines to make decisions and to make modifications. Visit the aggie horticulture website for more ideas and solutions.

A little bit of research before deciding on a landscape tree will save you time and money. Trees are most definitely a long-term investment. Choose a tree that is suited to your climate, soil, and available space. Texas A&M Agrilife has designated hardy, reliable, disease-resistant plants with the Texas Superstar designation. Currently there are six trees designated Texas Superstar trees which include: Basham’s Party Pink Crapemyrtle; Deciduous Holly; Shantung Maple; Lacey Oak; Chinkapin Oak; and Chinese Pistache, visit texassuperstar.com to learn more about these trees and other Texas superstar plants. If you are looking for a wider range of choices visit the Texas Tree Planting guide website at texastreeplanting.tamu.edu and you can customize your choices with the tree selector option.

Once you have selected a tree, it is time to plant it. Fall is a great time to plant your tree when the temperatures are milder. Remove the tree from its container and dig a hole that is 2 to 3 times the width of the rootball (a wide hole allows ample drainage for the roots), make sure that the depth of the hole is 1-2 inches shallower than the rootball. In other words, the top of the ball should be sticking out at least an inch. Loosen outside roots from the ball and remove excess soil from the top and water it thoroughly. Place the tree in the hole (most experts agree that there is no need for staking as it might damage the bark) backfill with just the soil that was dug up from the hole but before the backfill is complete, water it in, then complete the backfill. Continue to water it in thoroughly and mulch. Make sure that only a thin layer of mulch is near the trunk, saving the thicker layer of mulch for the outside edge. Fertilizers are not recommended until the tree has had an opportunity to become established, which is about 6-8 months. For more helpful ideas visit the Texas A&M horticulture websites.

Bare Rooted Fruit Trees

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Bare Rooted Fruit Trees by Wanda Loras, Master Gardener.

There is nothing better than a firm, juicy peach or a crisp apple plucked from your very own tree.  If this sounds good to you, start now and in a couple of years it can happen.

Bare rooted fruit trees are available in the garden centers now.  They come packed with damp moss or sawdust covered with material to keep the roots moist.  They are less expensive and if planted properly are just as successful as container plants.  Plant when the trees are dormant from December to February.  Three to four foot trees are a good size.  It is important to pick one with a good root system.  Whatever variety you choose, the planting method is the same.

Remove the wrapping, tags, and strings from the root ball.  Remove any broken roots and soak in water for one hour.   Dig the hole in a sunny location.  Measure the depth of the root system by finding the ring that shows color separation on the trunk.  This was the depth of the tree in its originally setting.  Dig the hole at the same depth and wide enough to let the roots spread out in their natural position.  Back fill the hole insuring that all the roots are firmly covered with loose soil.  Hand tamp the soil around the roots as you fill.  When the hole is half full, water lightly to purge any air pockets.  Finish filling with the same method.  Finally, soak the hole with water.  When the loose soil sinks below ground level, add enough soil to make it ground level again.  Do not fertilize when you plant.  A root stimulator may be applied according to the package directions.  When the tree begins to leaf out in the spring, fertilizer may be added.

After the tree is in the ground it should be pruned.  Remove all side shoots and cut the center trunk back by ½.   It will look like a stick in the ground.  This will insure proper growth and successful fruit bearing.  When the new growth comes out in the spring, prune so the center of the tree is open and has a V shape.  Peaches, plums, apricots, and almonds are often pruned to leave an open center.  This allows the sun to penetrate through the opening, therefore more fruit at harvest time.  Keep the open center for the life of the tree by pruning away new growth that invades the open space.  Keep crowded branches and any shoots that are overly aggressive pruned away.  This will reduce the height and will be easier to harvest.

Pears, pecans, and apple trees are left with a main trunk in the center.  Trim away the branches with a sharp V shape to the trunk leaving only the limbs with wide angle crotches.  If the lateral branches are too close to each other, trim to maintain sufficient distance between them.  More information on pruning can be found at http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/fruitgarden/managing-html.

It does indeed take a little patience for your first fruit to bear from your new tree.  It is truly worth the wait for that scrumptious peach cobbler, apple pie, or pear preserves. It just doesn’t get any better than that.

Pruning Trees

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Pruning Trees by Byron Chitwood

There are many reasons to trim or prune landscape trees.  Some of the reasons are as follows:

  • Promotion of plant health.  Some trees do not naturally prune themselves.  Limbs might die and need to be physically removed.  Also some damage might be as a result of storms.  High winds or icing can cause limbs to break.  Unfortunately, the breaks do not occur at places on the branch that are the most desirable.
  • Safety.  Some growth of certain trees can cause hazardous conditions such as those caused by aging and cracking in narrow “Vees” of adjoining branches.  This article does not give legal advice on the liabilities of a property owner regarding trees; however, it is the legal responsibility of the property owner to insure that hazards do not occur.  If some of your landscape trees encroach on a utility right-of-way, trimming might be required.  Rather than attempting to trim those trees, call the Utility Company.  They have a vested interest in protecting their power lines and will more than likely trim the trees and grind the trimmings and either haul them away or give them to the homeowner.
  • Trees may need to be pruned to maintain the intended purpose of the original landscape plan.  Most flowers and turf grasses require a certain percentage of sunlight during the day.  Branches can be removed to improve the sunlight hours on those plants.
  • Increase visibility.  Your landscape might have trees or shrubs that have grown up to block the view from a particular window.  Lower branches can be removed to improve visibility.

If you plan do it yourself and do your own pruning, there are some simple rules to follows: first, safety is the most important thing to consider.  The two most dangerous items in your toolbox are chain saws and ladders.  More people are injured by falling from a ladder.  I have also seen some rickety ladders being used.

Chainsaws can be very dangerous.  Even woodcutters with years of experience have been severely injured using one of these hand held mechanical sharks.  They can eat you up, belt buckle, bones and all. It might be better for you to use a good sharp pruning saw rather than standing on your tiptoes on top a rickety step ladder while trying to reach way over your head and sawing off that last branch.

There is a proper way and place to cut off a branch.  A branch growing from a larger limb will have a branch collar at its base.  Cut the offending limb at the base of the branch above the collar which will leave a stub. Then, cut the stub off avoiding cutting the collar.  Make the cuts so that they angle down and away from the main branch.

Personally, I might cut a branch here and there when they die or need to be removed but if some big time pruning needs to be done, I call in the professionals.  There are some really good ones in the community and they can usually do a very good job and safely remove those branches that need pruning.  Also, most of them leave the yard in immaculate condition.

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Pecan Grafting Seminar

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Pecan Grafting Seminar by Sara Allen

Pecan production is popular in Hunt County in both backyard small orchards, as well as larger orchards. We have had requests recently to host a Pecan Grafting Clinic, and are pleased to be doing so on Thursday, January 15, as part of the Art of Gardening Seminar Series.

This seminar will be the first “Art of Gardening Series” seminar for 2015. The program will begin at 6:00 p.m. at the Fletcher Warren Civic Center, 5501 Business Highway 69 South in Greenville.

The speaker for this free program is Winston Walls, of Walls Family Farm in Terrell, TX. Mr. Walls has a long and successful past with grafting pecans, and estimates he has grafted over 6,000 trees. He learned his skill from his family, and is honored to be sharing it with others. His family’s pecan orchard is well known in our area, as well as the trees they graft and sell. He is excited to be sharing his skills with participants in the seminar.

This seminar will be devoted to teaching the various types of grafts, including the Whip Graft, Clevice or Inlay Graft, and Banana Graft. Mr. Walls will also be giving away a tree to one lucky participant. There will also be time for a question and answer session.

If you are interested in learning how to graft, you will not want to miss this seminar. In addition to the door prize, refreshments will be provided. Make plans to attend each “Art of Gardening Series” event this year as well. Programs are held at 6:00 p.m. the third Thursday of January, April, July and October. Watch for details of upcoming programs here, or you may also find information at https://huntcountymastergardeners.org. The Master Gardeners also have a Facebook page (Hunt County Master Gardeners), which we welcome you to “like”.

We encourage children and youth to attend with families. For questions on this seminar, please contact the library at 903-457-2992. Questions concerning the Hunt County Master Gardener program are welcomed at 903-455-9885.

Planting Trees

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Planting Trees by Dave White

Fall is the best time to plant trees in the landscape. The cooler temperatures and increased moisture allow the tree to adapt to its new location and establish a healthy root system under less stressful heat and drought conditions.

Personally I prefer a container grown tree over a balled and burlap or bare root tree and will focus on this type in this article. With a container grown tree, I know all the tree roots are present and there is less stress in transplanting. I also choose 5 gallon container trees allowing the younger tree time to adapt to a new home.  A 5 gallon tree is also easy to carry and transport. It will generally catch up in size to a larger 15 gallon tree within a 3 year period.

After selecting the planting location where you considered the full grown size of the tree, sun conditions, drainage, overhead wires, buried utilities and other obstructions, you are ready to begin digging. Dig the hole twice as wide in diameter of the tree ball. Wider is better. This loosens the compacted soil to enable the roots to begin growing. Make the hole no deeper than the root ball. Proper planting depth is important to ensure the top of the root ball is level with the soil or a little higher to allow for soil settling.

Remove the tree from its container. Inspect the tree roots and spread any coiled roots outward in the planting hole. If needed, cut the roots with a sharp knife from the bottom in three or four places on the side of the root ball to spread the roots. Inspect the tree for any girdling roots around the trunk that could strangle the tree as it grows. Remove these if necessary.

Begin backfilling the hole with the native soil. Research has determined that amending the soil with organic matter is not recommended. It impedes root growth and water movement between the two soil types. The amended soil tends to become more saturated in clay soils creating a “bathtub” effect.

Ensure the tree is straight in the hole. Partially back fill the hole and then flood the hole with water to help settle the soil and remove any air pockets from around the roots. Do not add fertilizer to the backfill mixture. Continue backfilling the hole to the proper level on the root crown ensuring the root ball is covered with soil.

A slightly raised berm can be made around the planted tree with any remaining soil. Top dress the planted tree with 3 – 6 inches of mulch to maintain even moisture levels and soil temperatures. Stake if necessary to support the tree in a windy location. Remove the stakes after one year.

Water the tree thoroughly when finished. If soil testing indicated fertilization was needed, apply a water soluble fertilizer according to directions with the final watering.  Supplemental watering is very important during your tree’s first two years. Maintain a watering schedule throughout this time to ensure your tree has the needed moisture to grow and flourish in your landscape.

Planting Container Shrubs

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Planting Container Shrubs by Wanda Loras

Right now is the best time to plant your container shrubs.  The weather is pleasingly warm during the day and the nights are cool and refreshing.  Just like humans, newly planted shrubs love this weather too.

September through December is the best planting time because you have 5- 7 months for the roots to grow and strengthen. You may think your shrubs are asleep during the winter months but a lot is happening under the covers.  Plant roots will grow as long as the soil temperature is 40 + degrees Fahrenheit. In North Central Texas the soil temperature does not get below 40 very often.  So when the blast of heat from our hot summer months envelope them they are strong and healthy enough to adapt.

Shrubs are an intricate part of the landscape.  They come in a multitude of shapes, sizes, and colors.  After you have decided where you want your shrubs the next step is planning.  Make note of the space available.

If you are adding shrubs, consider a different shape, color, or height.  Look at the label with the shrub.  Most will state the mature height and width.  If you have a four foot space and you buy a plant solely because you like the way it looks without factoring in the mature size you will not be happy.  My friend planted a Fraser’s Photinia in a four foot space because she liked the color.  When I told her how big this plant would be at maturity her comment to me was, “Oh well, I can keep it trimmed.”   At maturity a Fraser’s Photinia would look like a skeleton if kept to a 4 foot width!  Imagine all that trimming work as well.  That is why reading the label is one of the most important things you can do when selecting plants.  Most  labels will also inform you of  the spacing between plants, the lowest temperature the plant can withstand, the moisture conditions needed, and if the plant requires a sunny, partial shade, or shade location.  Some shrubs do not have a label with all these conditions available.  For this reason, find a reputable nursery with informed staff that can answer your questions.

When you plant, dig a hole wide enough for a six inch clearance all around (12” diameter root ball needs 24” dia. hole) and only as deep as the root ball (12” deep root ball needs 12” deep hole). The depth is important to insure the shrub does not sink into the hole due to settling.   The width is important because it keeps the roots from hitting a brick wall as soon as they want to travel.  They need loose soil to grow and expand.  Put a little loose soil in the bottom of the hole so the root ball is slightly higher than the surface.  When placing the shrub in the hole, pick it up from the bottom of the root ball and place it in the center of the hole and backfill half of the depth with composted native soil.  Tamp the soil down and slightly water to settle the soil.  Finish filling the hole with the composted soil to the ground surface.  Tamp the soil down and thoroughly soak the root ball and surrounding area.  The root ball should be slightly above the surface. Keep watered every 7-10 days.  Finish with 4 to 6 inches of mulch and wait for spring to fertilize.

If you choose the right shrub for the space you will have years of enjoyment with a minimal amount of trimming.  In fact, I have shrubs I never trim.  A little planning will save you many hours of labor and frustration.

Cypress Trees

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Cypress Trees by Charles Bohmfalk

There are several species of cypress trees that are found around Texas. The most common and well known is the bald cypress.  It is known by several names:  Gulf cypress, red cypress, southern cypress, swamp cypress, white cypress and yellow cypress.  Bald cypress is a member of the Redwood family.  They are native to swamps and rivers in east and central Texas. It can tolerate standing water or rather dry sites once established, but does best in wetter areas.  They prefer acid to neutral soils.  The bald cypress is a deciduous (loses its leaves in fall) conifer (cone bearing tree) that is widely planted in Texas as a shade tree.  They are among the first trees in Texas to lose their leaves in the fall (hence the name “bald cypress”) and the last to bud in the spring.  Bald cypress trees can grow to a height of up to 120 feet.  Most live up to 600 years, but some individuals have survived as long as 1,200 years.

Bald cypress trees provide habitat for many animal species. Wild turkey, wood ducks, evening grosbeak and squirrels eat the seeds. Branches provide nesting places for bald eagles and osprey. Rotting knees are used as nesting cavities by warblers. Catfish spawn beneath cypress logs. Bald cypress diffuse and slow floodwaters, reducing flood damage.  Cypress is also called the “wood eternal” because the heartwood is resistant to decay. Bald cypress is used for heavy construction, including docks, warehouses, boats and bridges, and was heavily logged in much of Texas. The Choctaw Indians used the bark for string and rope. The Seminoles found bald cypress useful for making houses, canoes, and ceremonial objects.

The Montezuma bald cypress is found from the Rio Grande River south to Guatemala; it is uncommon to rare in Texas. It is also known as: Mexican Cypress, Sabino, Ahuehuete, Cipres.  The main difference between Montezuma bald cypress and bald cypress is that Montezuma bald cypress is evergreen and the male flowers are borne in long racemes, whereas common bald cypress is deciduous and the male flowers are in short clusters. Since far south Texas is the northernmost of its range, it has difficulty surviving winters north of San Antonio.

Arizona Cypress (also known as Arizona Rough Cypress, Cedro, Cedro Blanco, Rough Bark Arizona Cypress) is native to Texas only in the Chisos Mountains of Big Bend National Park, but is widely cultivated as a specimen tree and for dense windbreaks in west Texas and the southern High Plains, and for erosion control in dry areas.  It is a medium to large evergreen tree with small scale-like green, blue-gray to silver-blue leaves. It is compact, drought tolerant and fast-growing.  It is adaptable to most areas of Texas.

The Italian Cypress is native to the lands surrounding the Mediterranean Sea in its eastern region. The Italian Cypress is cultivated throughout the United States in areas with similar hot, dry summers and mild, rainy winters as the Mediterranean Basin. The Italian Cypress has erect branches forming a narrow columnar habit of growth and is less than a tenth as wide as the tree is tall. The Italian Cypress has an extremely unique form that provides a classic distinction for Mediterranean themed landscapes, tall screens and framing accents.

Leylands are a popular privacy tree.  They grow very fast and thicken to create a solid wall.  It’s feathery texture is soft to the touch.  Leyland cypress trees stay green all year-round, giving complete privacy.

Pruning Trees

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Pruning Trees by Byron Chitwood

There are three reasons for pruning landscape trees.  The first is for the health of the tree.  Both diseases and insects contribute to the decline of a tree.  If damage by one or both of these, the prudent thing to do is remove the diseased or insect infested limbs.  Also as we found out in the most recent ice storm, nature does a lot of trimming of trees with results that are not exactly what we would plan.  Some of the fallen or hanging limbs have split the remainder of the limb that is still attached to the tree.  These limbs need to be cut back below the split or peeled bark.

Another reason for pruning trees is to prevent hazard to people, buildings or other trees, shrubs and plants.  Some trees such as Bradford pears grow very rapidly under good growing conditions.  The limbs growing from the trunk area become long and heavy and can eventually break under their own weight.  Use your own judgment on when to prune trees with large and long overhangs.  There was a Bradford pear tree in our yard that shed a large limb for no other reason than it was too heavy to support itself.  This one crashed on a bench that some friends and we had been sitting on a few hours before.  The fallen limb was large enough to have severely injured someone had they been there at that time.  Several days later, another limb from the same tree came crashing down on our roof which resulted in several thousand dollars damage.  The Bradford pear tree had many more limbs about the same size so the prudent thing to do was permanently prune the entire tree at ground level.

One more reason to prune trees is to achieve a more pleasant form.  For instance if a tree is growing in with an unbalanced posture, some trimming might be in order to give it a better shape. Some trees will have limbs that are too close to the ground.  These limbs can cut off a certain amount of light to the turf and also will sweep and sway in the wind wiping out the plants growing directly under.  Cut limbs like this close to the trunk.  There will be a collar tissue around the base of the limb.  Make the final cut just above the collar and paint the freshly cut area with a pruning paint or one with a latex base.

There are plenty of good arborists who will gladly give you a quote and suggestions on your tree pruning needs.  Most of them are very organized and professional in their work.  Some of your neighbors might have used their services and will be glad to give a recommendation.  Come to think of it, that might be the least expensive way to prune trees, especially if you have to stand on your tiptoes on top of a wobbly 12 foot step ladder with a pole chainsaw that is six inches short of being able to reach and saw off a branch that is destined to fall on your head.  Good luck on your way down and happy landing.

Preventing Oak Wilt

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Preventing Oak Wilt by Byron Chitwood

There are many diseases and insects that attack Oak Trees in Texas.  .   One of the most devastating of the diseases is Oak Wilt.  Hunt County has managed to dodge the Oak Wilt problem even though it is as close as Collin County.  Oak wilt will be discussed later in this article but first it is important to recognize some of the more prevalent conditions that attack Oaks and some other trees in our area.

The prolonged drought has been an enabler for many of the diseases and insects to attack our Oak Trees.  One of the ones that have been the most devastating in our area is Hypoxylon Canker.  Hypoxylon is a wind borne fungus that attacks the trees by entering through wounds in the bark.  Hypoxylon Canker attacks the cambium layer under the bark and at the same time, white rot attacks the sap bearing wood under that layer.  Both grow and expand causing the bark to peel and fall to the ground around the base of the trunk of the infected tree.  Presently, there is no cure for this disease and trees that reach this state will eventually die.  The only safe treatment is to keep the high value trees in the urban lawn well watered.  Healthy trees have the ability to resist Hypoxylon Canker.

Oak Tree Decline is also a fungus that we do see some of in this area.  The fungus gradually stops the flow of liquids to the top branches which dieback.  This disease gradually kills the infected tree over a period of time.

Borers usually attack unhealthy and stressed trees.  They are not the cause of death of many trees but are a symptom of other problems.  High value trees can be sprayed with an insecticide that will at least kill the borers.  A proficient Arborist should be contacted if treatment is desired.

One problem that we see in this area is from Oak Twig Pruner and Oak twig girdler.  The symptom of this problem is a multitude of very small branches fall from an otherwise healthy tree.  Both insects lay eggs in a small branch.  The eggs only hatch after the branch dies.  The best suggestion for this problem is too keep all the fallen branches picked up and destroyed or put in a secure trash bag and dispose of them.

 

Oak Wilt develops from a fungus spread by the Nitidulid Beetle. They feed on the sap of Oak Trees.  Unfortunately, some of these trees they feed on are infected by Oak Wilt.   They then transport Oak Wilt fungus to otherwise healthy trees.  Since the Nitidulid Beetle is a sap feeder, the most convenient dinner table for them is a very recently trimmed tree that is oozing sap.  The oak wilt fungus can only survive in a very narrow temperature range that occurs between early spring and the hottest part of the summer.  Therefore, limit trimming oak trees to only the coldest and hottest months of the year, namely February and August.  Even then, paint the trimmed ends of branches with a pruning solution or latex paint.

One of the major ways Oak Wilt has been spread is through the purchase of firewood that comes from an area that already has Oak Wilt.  Only purchase fire wood that has been well seasoned.

If Oak wilt is a suspect in one of your trees, please contact the Texas A&M AgriLife at 903-455-9885. A specialist will contact you to assess the symptoms and advise the next steps to take.

Planting Fruit and Nut Trees

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Planting Fruit and Nut Trees by DeAnna Hambly

Ah, delicious juicy summer peaches. But wait! It’s November. And most people are thinking about turkey and dressing– not warm summer days and fruit trees swaying in the breeze. True. But because fruit and nut trees have a minimum chilling hours requirement, November is the best time of year to think about planting them. Chilling hours refers to the number of hours a tree needs to spend in approximately 32-40 degree temperatures every year. Depending on what type of tree you plant and the area you live in, the hours will vary.

After fruit and nut trees are planted, it can take several years for them to bear fruit. For this reason, it’s best to ensure you are in it for the long haul. These trees can also require a lot of maintenance. Pruning, pollination requirements, and spraying insecticides–to combat insects and diseases–are some of the considerations you should think about before planting fruit and nut trees.

Here are a few basic things you should know. You already know that November (fall) is the best time to plant, and that because of chilling requirements, the type of climate you live in is important. You also understand that fruit and nut trees require considerable maintenance for their success.

The most important things to consider when planting fruit and nut trees are the tree’s soil, drainage, fertilization, sunlight and air requirements. For the purpose of this article I will use the peach tree as an example. These requirements apply to most fruit and nut trees; however, be sure to check with your local nursery or county agriculture agent for the specific requirements of the type of tree you are planting.

Peach trees grow best in soil that has a pH of about 6.5. Soils with a pH below this will require the addition of lime to the soil before planting the tree. Peach trees also require a balanced texture of soil ranging between sandy loam and sandy clay. Drainage conditions are extremely important as poorly drained soils will result in stunted fruit and eventually disease and/or death of the tree.

Peach trees require maximum sunlight and should be planted in an area where they will receive sun for most of the day. They also require good air circulation and should not be planted too close together or near other trees or objects such as buildings. At time of planting, use a fertilizer high in phosphorous and potassium to ensure sufficient root growth. During the fall, all the trees energy is put into the root system. In the spring and early summer, apply a fertilizer high in nitrogen and water the trees thoroughly.

For best results, choose bare-root nursery grown trees. For peach trees, one year old trees approximately three feet high are best. Look for trees with healthy root systems. A small tree with a healthy root system is preferred over a larger tree with a poor root system. Always purchase disease free trees. Peach trees are self-pollinating; therefore it is not necessary to plant more than one variety; however, some apple trees cannot produce fruit from their own pollen. This requires planting at least two varieties.

Prune newly planted trees at time of planting. Cut back the top third of the tree and remove any thin, weak side branches. This will ensure new growth that is strong and healthy. For more information on planting fruit and nut trees, contact the Texas AgriLife Extension office at 2217 Washington Street in Greenville, Texas.