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Turfgrass

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Turfgrass by Karla Basallaje, Master Gardener.

Because it serves so many purposes and provides many benefits, it is easy to forget that turfgrass is likely the largest plant in your garden. Not only does it provide your home with curb-appeal, it controls soil erosion and runoff; it limits dust and noise, as well as helping to dissipate heat. As with other plants in your garden, they need care; more specifically, your lawn needs to be mowed, watered and fed.

Ideally, it would make sense to start with a soil test, so that a better understanding of what nutrients your soil needs to support the plants growing in it can be determined. Mowing is a crucial step in maintaining a healthy lawn. Experts recommend mowing no more than a third of the grass blade. Keep your mower blades sharp so that the grass blade is cut and not torn. The height of the grass blade affects how much chlorophyll the grass has available for photosynthesis. The more green tissue is available, the more carbohydrates are produced and stored, especially in the spring and summer, which is growing season for warm season grasses. Conversely, the shorter the blade, the weaker and more stressed your turf becomes as carbohydrate production and storage is reduced, leaving your lawn vulnerable to insect attacks, disease, and weed spread due to the lack of reserves. Don’t bag your clippings; mulch them into the lawn to reduce water use, to help choke out weeds and help put nitrogen back into the soil.

The first step to evaluating your watering needs is to make sure your irrigation system is in good working order – look for broken or leaking sprinkler heads. Do not water sidewalks or driveways. Don’t over-water your lawn. Never water your turf to the point of run-off. It is preferable to irrigate more deeply to encourage root growth, which will withstand dry weather better. The general recommendation is to water about one inch of water per week. There are, however, mitigating factors to consider including soil type and weather. The best time to water is in the morning as opposed to the evening to avoid moisture clinging to your lawn throughout the night making it susceptible to disease. Visit texaset.tamu.edu for assistance in calculating sprinkler run times.

The time to start fertilizing your lawn is sometime in the spring as there is usually enough reserved nitrogen to see the grass through the first two or three mowings. Examine your lawn and if growth appears vigorous, you can wait to fertilize until May. In the absence of a soil test, apply fertilizer with a 3-1-2 nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium (N-P-K) ratio (example: 15-5-10) or a 2-1-1 ratio (example: 15-5-10). Continue to observe your lawn and apply fertilizer every 6-8 weeks or so during the growing season depending on the turf and type of fertilizer.

With proper and diligent care, many turf problems may be averted. Most insect problems take place in full sun, while most disease problems take place in the shade. Lawn problems usually appear as brown or yellowing spots and can range from drought stress to brown patch to chinch bugs.

For help in determining lawn problems see the helpful earth-wise guide and flow chart at aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu

Fire Ants

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Fire Ants by Byron Chitwood, Master Gardener.

It’s that time of the year when you begin to notice that you have fire ants in your yard or pasture. Actually, they have been there all through the winter. They just set up housekeeping deeper underground to avoid the cold. Now that the temperature has warmed up, they have moved closer to the surface of the ground, especially after a rain. As the water level rises after a rain, fire ants will build a fluffy mound above the surface of the water level to protect the queen and babies. If you happen to disturb one of these mounds, they will come out in mass and attack and sting everything that moves. Where they sting, will get red, hurt, itch and eventually develop into a pus pocket. People who are highly sensitive to fire ants might require medical treatment. Take precautions when working in the yard or garden. Precautions include wearing knee high rubber boots with pants legs tucked in. Wear gloves and long sleeves. Work in the yard or garden during daylight hours so that you can see and avoid mounds.

Fire ants can be controlled using the “Texas Two Step” approach. Note, I said controlled, not eliminated. This method consists of the following procedures:

Broadcast Bait: Broadcast bait throughout your lawn and vacant lots with a hand held or push type spreader. Set the spreader on its lowest setting. There are many brands of bait available at your favorite garden and yard supply store. Follow the directions on the package. Most advise broadcasting 1 to 1.5 pounds per acre. This is not very much but that is all that is required for control. The fire ants will forage for food during the night and carry it back to the den where it is fed to the other ants and the queen. When the queen dies, that will be the end of the colony since she is the only ant in the family that lays eggs. All of the ants will eventually die, either from eating the bait or at the end of their life cycle.  Apply bait only when the weather is warm enough for the ants to forage. To determine if they are foraging, apply a small amount of bait on top of the mound and if it is gone within 30 minutes or overnight, they are actively foraging. Do not disturb the mound after application. This can cause the ants to move their colony.

Mound Treatment: If you have a problem mound, one that you can’t avoid, treat it by applying either a granular, liquid or dust type insecticide directly to the mound. Follow the directions on the insecticide container. Usually, the directions recommend sprinkling a small amount on the mound and watering it in with several gallons of water. Use a hand held watering can if you have one or a gentle spray head on the end of your garden hose. Water very slowly so that the insecticide has time to sink in and reach the deepest part of the ant colony.

It would good practice for your neighbors to treat for fire ants at the same time. It doesn’t take long to spread the bait and usually, it is more economical to buy large quantities of ant bait which can be shared with your neighbors. Most ant baits contain oil which will eventually get rancid after the package is unsealed. Sharing the cost and treating a larger area will forestall the next invasion of fire ants on your property. For further information on fire ants, go to the website http://fireants.tamu.edu.

Texas Turf Grass

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Texas Turf Grass by Wanda Loras.

Seven years ago, I moved to Hunt County.  My neighbors told me the soil in our neighborhood would not grow anything.  I had many oak trees, sand, weeds and a miniscule amount of Bermuda grass.  In my ignorance of what was best for my site, I chose St. Augustine grass.

It would take a book to explain all the problems I have encountered with my St. Augustine turf in the last six years.  Due to diseases and not understanding how important soil samples are, I have replaced my lawn two times.  Ignorance again.

I was introduced to the Master Gardener program my fourth year in this county and my life changed.  Through this program, I learned where I could access a wealth of information on anything Horticulture in nature.

My research for Turf grass recommendations for North East Texas with an emphasis on Hunt County led me to http://aggieturf.tamu.edu.  This site will give you much more information than space for this article can possibly cover.

When deciding what turf is best for your location, it is important to select a species adapted to your specific location. Site considerations include:  shade or sun, soil depth and quality, intended use (lawn, golf course, or athletic field), amount of traffic, amount of rainfall or irrigation, and level of maintenance.

There are five species of turf that are well adapted for Northeast Texas.  Warm season grasses are Bermuda, Centipede, and Zoysia grasses.  Cool season grasses are Ryegrass and Tall Fescue.

Bermuda grass has a very low tolerance for shade.  Water requirements are moderate to low.  Drought tolerance is very good to excellent.  Traffic tolerance is high.  Cold tolerance is moderate.  Salinity tolerance is moderate to high.  Disease potential is low to moderate.  Mow every 3 to 7 days to maintain a height of 1 to 2 inches. Establish with seed or sod.  The seed can be found at garden centers and your local Farmers Co-op.

Centipede grass has a moderate tolerance for shade.  Water requirements are moderate.  Drought tolerance is moderate.  Traffic tolerance is low.  Cold tolerance is low.  Salinity tolerance is low to moderate.  Disease potential is low to moderate.  Mow every 7 to 10 days to maintain a height of 1.5 to 2.0 inches.  Centipede is especially good for east Texas due to its tolerance for more acidic soils.  Centipede is best suited as a low maintenance lawn grass and is best established with sod since seed is slower to cover.  However, seed is available for the patient grower.

Zoysia grass has a moderate to high tolerance for shade.  Water requirements are moderate.  Drought tolerance is very good.  Traffic tolerance is moderate to high.  Cold tolerance is moderate to high.  Salinity tolerance is moderate to high.  Disease potential is low to moderate.  Mow every 5 to 10 days to maintain a height of .5 to 2.0 inches.   Sod is best for establishment.

One section of my yard is now in Zoysia grass.  It is doing great.  I have Bermuda in sunny locations.  My St. Augustine is doing much better but I will eventually replace it because it requires too much water and is prone to so many diseases.   I have a section of exposed slightly acidic soil in moderate shade with soil erosion.  I think this plot is a good candidate for Centipede grass.

Brown Patch

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Brown Patch by Charles Bohmfalk

It is that time of the year when we are now entering the fall season that brings cooler weather and humid, rainy conditions.  These conditions when the overnight temperatures are below 70° F and the daytime temperatures are in the 75° F to 85° F range can lead to many problems in the lawn.  Brown patch is one of the lawn diseases that becomes a real problem in our lawns during the cooler and more humid weather conditions in the fall and early winter months.  A number of popular lawn grasses are susceptible to brown patch: Berumda, Carpetgrass, Centipede, Fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, St. Augustine and Zoysia.  Other grasses may be infected as well.  Brown patch may be identified as circular or irregular shaped patches of light brown, thinned grass.  The grass may appear yellowish and have a smoke ring on the outer edge.  Leaf sheaths become rotted and a gentle pull on the leaf blade will easily separate the leaf from the runner.   Most fungicides will do an effective job if used as a preventive treatment.  Brown patch may be harder to control once the fungus is established.  The Texas A&M website (aggieturf.tamu.edu/answers4you/disease/brownpatch.html) lists some of the more effective fungicides.  There are other fungal infections that may resemble brown patch.  The same fungicide may control that problem as well.

I recently had a brown area in my lawn.  Brown areas caused by grub worms will show a browning or the appearance of a lack of water in the area.  The damage may be a small spot or cover a large area and is caused by white grub worms, the larvae of the May or June bugs.  The larvae feed one to two inches below the surface and destroy part or most of the root system of the lawn.  Damage usually appears in late July through early August.  If the damage is heavy, the sod can be easily lifted up or rolled up.  To verify that the problem is grub worm damage, dig one square foot sections to a depth of 4 inches.  Treatment with an insecticide is necessary if more than four grubs are found per square foot.  Since my lawn damage was in an area where I have had a problem with grub worms before, I treated the area with an insecticide.  The grass is already showing good signs of recovery.  If left unattended in the fall, the grub worm will survive over winter and become very active in the early spring.  By this time, the grubs have done more significant damage to the grass roots and large areas of the lawn may not survive the winter.

Cinch bug damage appears as irregular patches in sunny areas, usually along driveways, sidewalks and house foundations.  The grass first turns yellow and eventually dies and turns brown.  To identify a chinch bug infestation, remove both ends of a metal can and twist it into the grass.  Fill the can with water and a little detergent.  In a few minutes, the chinch bugs will float to the surface.  They are black with white wings folded over the body.  Treat with an insecticide that has cinch bugs listed on the label.  Read the label and carefully follow the directions when using any fungicide or insecticide.

Cool Weather Lawn Problems

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Cool Weather Lawn Problems by Charles Bohmfalk

We are now entering the fall season that brings cooler weather and humid, rainy conditions.  Lawn diseases become a bigger problem with these conditions that are more pleasant for us.  Brown patch is one of the lawn diseases that becomes a problem in our lawns during the cooler and more humid weather conditions in the fall and early winter months when night time temperatures are below 70° F and the daytime temperatures are in the 75° F to 85° F range.  Most turf grasses are susceptible, especially St. Augustine, zoysiagrass and centipede grasses.  Brown patch doesn’t normally kill the affected grass, but it can weaken the affected grass and make it more susceptible to further damage by the approaching freezing and sometimes dry winter conditions.  Brown patch is a fungal disease problem that can easily be confused with grub worm, armyworm, sod webworm, cutworm and chinch bug damage.  Proper diagnosis is necessary to treat and remedy the problem.

Brown patch has circular to irregular shaped patches of brown or yellowing grass that is less than one foot to several feet in diameter.  The outside of the circle may have a “smoke ring” appearance that is caused by the spreading fungus.  In this area, the leaves of the grass may be easily pulled from the stolens or stems.  Inside the infected area the grass may remain green that leaves a “frog-eye” appearance.  Leaf sheaths in the infected area also become rotted and water-soaked to the point that a gentle tug of the leaf blade easily separates it from the runner.  To prevent this disease from attacking your lawn, pay close attention to your watering habits, thatch accumulation, and your nutrient management program.  Fungicides that are easily obtained at your local garden center can be used for the prevention and control of brown patch.  Read the label and carefully follow the directions when using any fungicide or insecticide.

Brown areas caused by grub worms will show a browning or the appearance of a lack of water in the area.  The damage may be a small spot or cover a large area and is caused by white grub worms, the larvae of the May or June bugs.  The larvae feed one to two inches below the surface and destroy part or most of the root system of the lawn.  Damage usually appears in late July through early August.  If the damage is heavy, the sod can be easily lifted up or rolled up.  To verify that the problem is grub worm damage, dig one square foot sections to a depth of 4 inches.  Treatment with an insecticide is necessary if more than four grubs are found per square foot.

Cinch bug damage appears as irregular patches in sunny areas, usually along driveways, sidewalks and house foundations.  The grass first turns yellow and eventually dies and then turns brown.  To identify a chinch bug infestation, remove both ends of a metal can and twist it into the grass.  Fill the can with water and a little detergent.  In a few minutes, the chinch bugs will float to the surface.  They are black with white wings folded over the body.  Treat with an insecticide that has cinch bugs listed on the label.  Read the label and carefully follow the directions when using any fungicide or insecticide.

Lawn Care

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Lawn Care by Charles Bohmfalk

Mowing is the most important part of lawn care.  A lawn should be cut to the appropriate height.  Since most of the lawns in this area are common bermuda or St. Augustine, I will address most of my comments to those grasses.  Common bermuda grass lawns should be mowed when they reach approximately 2 1/4 inches in height and mowed to a height of 1 1/2 inches.  St. Augustine and most other grasses in our area should be cut when they reach 3 inches and cut to a height of 2 inches.  Many hybrid bermuda grasses should be kept shorter.  A good rule of thumb about how much to cut is to only cut 1/3 of the total blade length at one time.  Mowing the grass too short can cause several problems.  First, shorter mowing can inhibit root growth. There is a direct relationship between blade length and root growth.  Another important function of the leaf blade length is heat insulation.  Removing too much leaf can also make the grass more easily damaged by high summer heat, and more susceptible to wear.

Mower blades should be kept sharp to insure a clean cut that will heal quickly.  Dull blades will leave grass blades jagged and torn.  Grass cut with dull mower blades may show a tan shade over the lawn.

Lawn watering is one of the most necessary and basic needs of a lawn, but is frequently done incorrectly.  Watering too often (daily in many cases) can cause the lawn to put down shallow roots.  The lawn will not be able to survive a hot, dry summer, especially with watering restrictions.  Appropriate and deep watering will encourage the grass to establish a deeper root system that will help it to survive our hot and dry summers. Wait for the lawn to tell you when to water.  Look for a few dry spots to begin to appear.  They can indicate that the time to water is near.  If it is just a small spot or a few small spots consider spot watering.  As more and larger sections of the lawn show up, it is time to water.  Another indicator that the lawn is about to wilt is when the lawn takes on a dull purplish cast and the blades begin to curl or fold, or when footprints remain after you walk across the lawn.

Different soil types require different amounts of water for a normal watering.  About 1/2 inch of water may be adequate for a soil that is high in sand.  A loam soil may need about 3/4 inch of water while a highly clay soil will require about 1 inch.  Water the lawn until the water begins to run off.   The best time to water is in the morning when it is cool and the wind is generally calmer.

Fertilizing is another important part of lawn care.  The best way to determine what to use and how much to use is to have a soil test.  Many nurseries provide the service, generally for a fee.  If a soil test is not available, apply a fertilizer with 4-6 parts nitrogen, 1 part phosphorus and 1-4 parts potassium.  A fertilizer with a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio is a good choice.  (For example a 9-3-6 or a 20-5-10 ratio.)  It should have a portion of the nitrogen listed as slow release.  Slow release nitrogen fertilizers may be difficult to identify or find.  Look for terms like sulfur-coated urea, resin-coated urea, ureaformaldahyde, isobutyliene diurea or natural organics as the slow release nitrogen portion.

Fire Ants

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Fire Ants by PJ LaRue Smith

It’s a perfect day, you’ve got a glass of iced tea in one hand, lounging in your favorite

lawn chair, and all is well in your world. Suddenly, OUCH, OUCH, OUCH! Iced tea and chair

go flying in two different directions, and you’re up like a shot doing a wild slapping, stomping

dance. To anyone living in the southern US, the reason for this bizarre behavior is obvious – fire

ants!

The “imported red fire ant”, is the one most are familiar with in Texas. As the name

implies, these ants are imported, red, and will cause a burning sensation, much like a match on

the skin. Afterward (within 24 hours after being stung) a white pustule will form and the worst

part of the itching (which lasts for approximately three days) begins. Just as is the case for bee

and wasp stings, those who are particularly sensitive to the ant stings can suffer far more severe

reactions – anaphylactic shock and even death. According to a leaflet produced by the Texas

Allergy, Asthma and Immunology Society, “fire ants are the most common cause of allergic

reactions to stinging insects in Texas”; “Severe allergic reactions (anaphylaxis) occur in 1 – 6 %

of people stung by fire ants and occasionally these reactions may be fatal”.

Here are a few tips to avoid being stung:

  • TEACH children and visitors about fire ants and their hazard.
  • LOOK before you step, or put a chair, child seat, etc. for any sign of a mound (even a
  • small one) or foraging ant activity. If highly sensitive, place a light colored blanket, or tarp on
  • the ground before setting up the lawn chair. (This not only acts as a physical block, but also as a
  • visual aid.) When moving pots, look for surface disturbance of the soil, or mound activity at
  • drainage hole sites. It is prudent to tap the side of a pot a couple of times and watch for ant
  • activity – a clear sign that the pot should be treated before picking it up.
  • WEAR protected clothing. When working outside, wear boots, tuck pants inside
  • socks, and use gloves when working.
  • SPRAY insect repellents on clothing or footwear (these treatments can temporarily
  • discourage foraging ants).
  • CONTROL ants in areas used most frequently by people or pets.
  • AVOID high risk locations. Areas around trash containers, frequently used picnic
  • areas, spilled animal feed, due to the ready availability of food, are particularly attractive to fire
  • ants. If a large number of mounds are noted, exercise caution when choosing a place to sit – fire
  • ants often forage far from their mounds.

Due to worker ants using their jaws (mandibles) to gain leverage to sting, merely

jumping into water or running water across ants will not remove them. The best approach is to

knock them off briskly by hand (or a glove, cloth, etc.). If you are working in the garden and

suddenly find your gloves covered with fire ants – remove your gloves as quickly as possible and

slap any remaining ants off. (If, like myself, you fall into the 1-6 percentile of susceptible

individuals, do not be shy about divorcing yourself of fire ant covered clothing. Failure to do so

CAN become a matter of life and death.)

Texas A&M has an excellent website that covers medical treatment and control of

this bane to outdoor enjoyment at http://fireant.tamu.edu/.

Got Grubs?

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Got Grubs? by DeAnna Hambly

Dry wilted grass or areas where grass has disappeared completely could be signs of a grub infestation in the lawn. Another sign, holes in the soil, may indicate that crows or gophers are digging for grubs. Grubs are the most destructive insects to a lawn, and if left untreated they can destroy an entire lawn very quickly.

Grubs are the immature stage (larvae) of the adult beetle (Japanese, June or others). They are white or cream colored, have a C-shaped body and vary in length between 1/2 and 1-1/2 inches. Six legs and a brown head are distinguishing features. Grubs live two to three inches below the soil surface where they feast on the root systems of grasses and plants.

It is important to understand the lifecycle of this insect in order to eliminate and control it. The female beetle begins laying her eggs in the warm summer grass around mid July. The eggs hatch, and grubs are present in early August. It’s during this time that grubs are most destructive. They feed on grass roots; eating as much as possible in order to build up their body fat in preparation for overwintering, and they can quickly annihilate an entire root system.

In November the grubs go down four to eight inches into the soil to hibernate, and in the spring (March) they return to the top two inches of the soil and begin feeding again. The damage isn’t quite as destructive during the spring because larvae are not preparing their bodies for hibernation. Instead, they are preparing for the transformation into adulthood (pupation) which takes place in June. This period lasts about two weeks, after which the adult beetle emerges from the soil to begin the next round of mating, feeding and laying eggs.

It is relatively easy and inexpensive to control grubs if the correct treatment and proper timing are used. The ideal time to treat the lawn is during the larvae stage–early August through September. Grubs are young, small, and feeding close to the surface of the soil at this time. If your grub problem is severe, you may also need to apply treatment in the spring.

Grub control includes chemical, biological and preventative treatments. Chemical treatment requires the use of insecticides. Look for products that contain the words, “Season Long Grub Control”. You can treat your lawn for grubs as early as May, but it’s best to start in mid July.

In spring, use a 24-hour grub control application if necessary. Since most of the damage will be done in the fall, the goal at this time is to prevent the larvae from pupating. Both of the above products need to be watered into the soil before they are effective; be sure to read the application instructions for maximum benefit. Some chemicals are toxic to birds, animals and people. Please read all warning labels before beginning any type of chemical treatment around your home.

Biological control involves the use of Milky Spores. Milky Spore is a bacterial infection that infects white grubs. It does not infect other insects, earthworms, birds, animals, people or plants. This type of treatment is more expensive than using insecticides, and the results are not as rapid. However, treatment can last 15-20 years.

Preventative controls include maintaining well drained soil, thatching and aerating the lawn, and cutting your grass higher in the summer. You should also inspect your lawn in March and August for the presence of grubs. Cut a one-square-foot piece of sod, three to four inches deep. Roll it back, breaking up the soil to expose any grub activity. Do this in several areas of the lawn. An average of six or more grubs per square foot warrants treatment.

For more information on controlling grubs, visit the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension office at 2217 Washington Street in downtown Greenville.