Hunt County Master GardenersTexas A&M AgriLife Extension Service

Using Rose Hips

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Using Rose Hips by June Morgan, Hunt County Master Gardener.

After the wonderful aroma of roses is over in the house, the petals have done their job of being tossed in weddings, and the bare stems are bereft of their former glory, one is tempted to trim away the ugliness. But wait, there is more to come; that is making use of the rose hips, the small round seed pods left on the flower stem after the petals have dropped.

While several species of Rosaceae can be used, it is the Rosa Canina (the wild dog rose), and Rosa Rugosa that are the most popular for both foragers and cultivators. They have been used for centuries for their food and medicinal properties. The plants are prickly climbers with white or pink flowers appearing in early summer, but the hips are not to be harvested until they are ripe and have turned red-orange. If left too long after a frost, they may start to rot, so to be ahead of the game, and to mimic a frost, they should be picked when still hard and put in the freezer for 24 hours.

To prepare the fruit for eating while they are fresh, wash them, cut off the stem and blossom ends, cut the hips in half and remove the inner seeds manually (as the small hairs inside are irritating to the bowel).  After cooking in water and straining, the juice can be used for jams, jellies, syrup and in various other recipes such as wine or they can be frozen for up to a year. Drying is the easiest way to preserve them and is less labor intensive. They can be dried in the sun on newspapers, or to protect them from the birds, in the oven or food dehydrator at 110 degrees for about 5-6 hours. Then grind them in a food processor just until they are chopped into medium size bits, not so small that they will fall though a mesh strainer where it can be shaken until the hairs separate and fall away. The hips can be stored in jars or in the freezer until needed.

To use the dried hips, simply cover them in a pot with water and simmer until soft. They can be used with other fruits such as cranberries or as flavoring in cakes, etc. For tea, put 1-2 teaspoons of the dried hips into a tea pot, let it steep for 15-20 minutes and strain into a cup. The taste will resemble that of apples with the tartness of crabapples. This makes a wonderful winter-time drink and a tasty addition to your natural apothecary.

Taking the Mystery Out of Rose Pruning

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Taking the Mystery Out of Rose Pruning by PJ LaRue Smith

The rose bush benefits from pruning in much the same way we benefit from receiving a hair cut.  While removing long, scraggly canes (long hair); or canes that cross one another (split ends); or thinning the bush’s center (thick hair); or cutting out old, corky canes (dry, damaged hair); and cleaning up the rose bed (sweeping up the cut hair) may not be essential to life (either the rose’s or ours), it certainly can improve the overall look and performance of both!.

Once-blooming roses (some climbers, shrubs, and Old Garden Roses), should not be pruned until after flowering in the spring since blooms are produced only on growth from the previous season.  Rose varieties that bloom repeatedly from spring until fall can be pruned in late February, or early March.

Generally, the “perfectly pruned”  rose bush should resemble a tall vase – open in the center, with canes on the outer perimeter.  Typically, this is achieved by pruning the plant down to 4 or 5, 12” – 16” pencil to thumb-sized canes.  However, like us, each rose plant is unique and should be assessed individually.  Some will require more (or less) pruning depending upon overall health, whether grafted or own-root, growth habit etc. Weak plants, for example, should have only the diseased, damaged, or dead wood removed.  Grafted plants (recognizable by the hand-sized “knot”, the bud-union, located at the base of the canes) should have any growth below the bud-union removed (aka suckers) and canes cut no shorter than 12”.  (Hybrid teas, grandifloras, floribundas, and modern climbers are generally grafted.  Tree roses will have two grafts, one to a rootstock, and the second just below the cluster of canes.)

Miniatures and polyanthas, on the other hand, are typically on their own roots and can sustain much heavier pruning, and can tolerate being pruned down to 5-7 inches above soil level.  Roses classified as species, shrub, or Old Garden Roses (OGR’s) are generally grown on their own roots as well, but unlike miniatures, need little pruning.  Simply remove the dead, diseased, and crossed canes; take a little off the top; lightly thin the middle and they’re done.

Tools for pruning:  a pair of leather gloves (to protect hands); a sharp pair of bypass (scissor-action) pruning shears; a pair of loppers (for large canes in tight places); a pruning saw to cut large, woody canes; and a whetting stone for keeping the pruners sharp.  Always wear protective clothing (long sleeved, heavy shirt and jeans) and be sure your tetanus booster is current (within the last 10 years).

Basic guidelines for pruning – cut to an outside facing eye (this limits stem growth in the center of the bush); cut 1/8” to 1/4” above the eye (limits cane die-back); cut at a 45 degree angle with the height of the angle at the eye (enables moisture to run off the cut, away from the eye); and lastly, cut down to a clean white pith/center (discolored pith is a sign of freeze or other damage).

Clean-up is an integral part of rose pruning – remove last year’s leaves, both remaining on the plant and on the ground; bag up all trimmings, mulch, and if so inclined, spray bushes with a fungicide to protect the emerging new growth from any residual spores.

Enjoy the “new look” your roses will have this spring!

Rose Rosette Disease

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Rose Rosette Disease by PJ LaRue Smith

Rose rosette disease (rose witches broom) has been getting more press the last several years in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area due to the increased infection rate noted at several homes and public gardens.  This disease is particularly devastating in that (a) there is no cure, (b) infected bushes must be removed/destroyed, and (c) all roots of infected plants must be dug up before replanting roses in the same location.

Symptoms of rose rosette disease include witches broom formation of new growth, twisted flowers and leaves, excessive leaf growth, excessive thorniness, red and/or mottled discoloration, lateral shoot elongation, flattened stems, and enlarged stems. Not all symptoms may be noted on affected plants, and can differ amongst rose types.

What causes the disease?  In 2011, a research group from the University of Arkansas reported the detection of a virus, specifically an Emaravirus, in symptomatic roses. They were able to detect this virus in 84 out of 84 symptomatic plants that were tested (Laney et al, 2011). This study also resulted in a genetic (PCR) test to detect the virus. However, the procedure can be tedious and is currently undergoing further modifications to simplify for ease of use.

How does the disease get into, or transfer from, plant to plant?  Evidence from mite transmission studies suggest that the eriophyid mite (Phyllocoptes fructiphilus) carry/transmit some disease causing agent from the diseased plant to healthy ones.  (There has not been any published study that clearly demonstrates that the eriophyid mite actually carries the rose rosette virus itself, however.)

How do you know that a rose has this virus?  Symptomology as described above, once other factors such as herbicide damage (especially products containing 2,4D), abiotic environmental conditions (i.e. sunlight, temperature, wind patterns, precipitation) and damage by other insects have been ruled out. Presence of the eriophyid mite along with the symptoms listed above further substantiate the conclusion of rose rosette disease.  Electron microscopy and other molecular tests can detect the virus, but are typically not done in the average home garden.

Can the rose rosette affected plant be left in the garden?  Most of the time, this disease will damage the rose plant to the point where it simply dies.  However, the infected plant can serve as a virus reservoir for transmission by the eriophyid mites to healthy bushes.  So removing/destroying the plant is the best option for further spread of the disease.

What is the best management practice when this disease is discovered in a garden?  According to Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service publication E-PLP-010 (August 15, 2013):

1. Removal of confirmed and/or symptomatic plants early after observation.

2. Treatment of adjacent plants with miticide to reduce probability of transmission by eriophyid mites. (Please note: this will not stop the virus, if it is already in the plant.)

3. Constant monitoring (weekly) for symptoms and rapid action when and if symptoms are observed.

4. If desiring to replant with roses, it is advisable to remove all diseased plant roots from the soil before replanting in same area. (This is a prudent precaution even though it is unlikely that the virus would spread this way.)

Hopefully, this disease will never visit your garden.  If you suspect that your roses may have this disease, please contact the Extension Office at 903-455-9885 for further information.

Own Root vs. Grafted Root Roses

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Own Root vs Grafted Root Roses by PJ LaRue Smith

Labeling on roses describes the type, fragrance, planting instructions, and a colorful picture of that particular rose variety.  What the label does not tell you, however, is whether the rose in the package/pot is on its own roots or grafted to another type of rose or rootstock.

How can one tell the difference?  Grafted roses have a knot-like structure where the graft was made and it is from this that the canes of the rose variety depicted on the package will originate.  If the rose is in a pot, this roundish “knot” will be just above the soil line.  If the rose is bareroot, for example in a plastic bag with shavings or peat moss, the knot will be above, or just below, the tie on the bag.  (Note:  When planting a grafted rose, the graft should always be above the soil line.)

Own root roses, by comparison, send up new growth or canes directly from the root system or at the base of a strong cane.

From the large rose producer’s standpoint, a grafted rose is far more economical to produce than one on its own roots.  Roses reach market size in half the time, bareroot packaging takes up less space, and shipping costs are minimal by comparison to shipping large plants of equal size housed in a pot.  Other benefits include using different rootstocks for various growing conditions – i.e. fortuniana rootstock for sandy soils where nematodes are a problem, multiflora rootstock for northern climates, and Dr. Huey rootstock for more clayish soils.

The downside to grafted roses from a producer’s perspective has been the introduction of mosaic virus into many varieties.  Plants with this virus tend to be stunted, with what appears to be variegated leaves of various patterns.  Unfortunately, there is no cure, and once a “mother” plant  is infected, all the buds removed from it for grafting purposes carry the infection and will in turn infect the newly grafted plant as well.

Home gardeners also experience a downside with grafted roses.  If the graft and the canes attached to it dies, so does the variety that they purchased.  The rootstock may begin to grow, but it is not a desirable addition to the garden as they are typically rambling, once blooming varieties.  Another downside to the grafted rose plant relates to its longevity in the garden.  Most grafted roses do not live past the 15 year mark, whereas own root roses can live for half a century or better.

Own root roses do take a little longer to get established, but once they are, tend to be hardier, able to handle stress better, and overall be a healthier plant.

Producers are recognizing the homeowner’s need for plants that can stand the test of time and are beginning to offer many varieties on their own roots.  Chamblee’s Rose Nursery in Tyler carries almost exclusively own root roses, Heirloom Roses, Rogue Valley Roses, and Roses Unlimited will ship own root roses in pots.

Common Rose Diseases

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Roses have not always been plagued by disease.  If that were the case, they would not have survived for thousands of years throughout the world as native plants.

Man, in his quest for the new and different, has breed much of the disease resistance out of the modern roses we are familiar with today.

So what can we do about rose disease?  First, select roses that are known to be disease resistant in this area – Earth Kind™ roses are good examples of those.  This is not to say that an Earth Kind™ rose will not get a rose disease.  It is to say that the rose will be less likely to pick up the disease and if it does, will continue to perform well in spite of it.  Often, such roses will simply outgrow the problem, such as is the case with powdery mildew.

Second, pay close attention to airflow around the bushes.  This comes into play not only when choosing a location, but also when planting the bushes.  A good location will be of minimal benefit if the bushes are planted too close together.  Listed height and width dimensions are simply an average and do not take into account our longer growing season.  A good rule-of-thumb is to plan on the bush growing 1/4th to1/3rd larger than the size listed and plant accordingly.  Prune in the spring with attention to airflow.  Are there several canes growing close together or crossing each other?  Remove enough canes to allow air to flow into the center of the bush.

Third, keep a clean garden by removing old leaves and debris from around the plants.  Disease spores can overwinter and re-infect the plant when water droplets splash on the debris, then on the new leaves.

Fourth, learn what the diseases are that affect roses in this area.  Two fungal diseases – powdery mildew and blackspot are the ones that plague local gardeners the most.

Powdery mildew affects the young, tender, new plant growth in the spring.  Cool temperatures combined with wet, damp spring weather brings about the worst powdery mildew.  However, since we typically do not have long-lasting spring weather, plants will outgrow most powdery mildew afflictions when the temperatures become warm and the days dryer.  Fungicides can be used, if the problem is severe enough – just follow the label instructions.

Blackspot, however, can be a plant killer.  This is due to toxins released by the fungus that cause leaf death and drop.  After this occurs, a rose bush can no longer manufacture food;  protect its canes from intense sunlight; keep its roots cool; or transpire effectively.  No fungicide will get rid of the spots already on a leaf –  these are actually spore cells waiting to be released.  Prevention is the only real way to ensure minimal blackspot issues within the rose garden, either by applying the aforementioned techniques and/or fungicide application throughout the growing season.

Two other diseases of note are rust – a reddish powdery fungus seen on the underside of the leaves; and galls – growths (that have the appearance of cauliflower) on the stems. Rust can be dealt with using a labeled fungicide.  Gall, however, typically involves removal of the canes infected (if feasible), followed by sanitation of all equipment, or, if severely infected, destruction of the bush.

Purchasing healthy, disease resistant plants, planting in sunny, open areas (with an eastern exposure) – providing adequate distance between each bush, and removing dead leaves from under them on a regular basis will often be all that is necessary to keep a rose garden looking beautiful.  If a fungicide is needed, be sure to carefully read and follow all the label’s instructions, verifying that it is safe for use on roses and that it will treat the disease problem you are faced with.

Pruning Roses and Making Cuttings From Them

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The 2013 winter season to date has been a roller-coaster ride of warm and cold temperatures, with periods of freezing rain and snow.  Just a typical winter in north Texas, right?  True, except for one distinction – the shifts in temperature have been quick and the temperatures have remained colder, longer.  This scenario, particularly with actively growing plants, causes extreme damage to the stems, and many times the death of a favored perennial.

Roses, particularly those that are cold sensitive, do not fare well when this happens.  Plants that were not watered or mulched sufficiently prior to an extended arctic blast will suffer the greatest damage and require the most extensive pruning in March.

The goal in pruning rose bushes is to improve the health and vigor of the bush.  Removal of dead, diseased, damaged, unproductive, or crossed canes, also assists in disease prevention.

Of particular note – a once blooming rose should NOT be pruned until AFTER it blooms in the spring.  Roses that bloom from spring until frost can be pruned before they leaf out completely.  Green canes should be pruned back to healthy, creamy white, wood.  Old garden roses (OGR’s) shrub roses, and climbers should be pruned lightly.

As with any garden chore, assembling the necessary equipment prior to beginning makes this yearly task much simpler to complete.  Standard rose pruning equipment includes the following:  (a) a sharp pair of BY-PASS pruners; (b) solid leather thorn-proof gloves (no part of which should be cloth); (c) a pruning saw, or sharp pair of long-handled, BY-PASS loppers (to trim away large diameter canes); (d) a trash can for debris (both what has been cut off and what may be lying below the plant); (e) a good whet stone to keep the pruners/loppers sharp (dull blades damage canes and tend to be a hazard for the operator); (f) appropriate footwear for working in the garden (sandals and flip-flops don’t protect from thorns, ants, or the accidentally dropped pair of pruners); (g) long-sleeved shirt and jeans; and (h) stocked first-aid kit (complete with tweezers for picking out the “thorn in the flesh”).

“Opening up the bush” to allow for greater air flow, requires the cutting out of interior crossed canes, and cutting above an outward facing bud eye.  A “bud eye” looks like a little smile with a nose above it and is where a leaf was attached last year.  New growth will originate from the “nose” of the bud eye and grow in the direction that it is pointing.  The strongest new growth on a cane originates at the cut end, therefore, cutting to the outside facing bud eye directs the new growth outward and upward.  This increases airflow through the bush and deters fungal growth.  Pruning cuts should be made approximately 1/4” above the bud eye at a 45° angle with the peak directly above the bud eye.

In the Hunt County area, the optimum time to prune is the first two weeks of March.  However, late freezes or mild winters can shift the timeline a week or so in either direction.  If you had a problem with disease in your rose garden last year, particularly blackspot, then it is important to remove and dispose of ALL trimmed material to keep from immediately re-infecting the new growth.  Add new mulch where needed and finish off by adding whatever fertilizer has been recommended through soil testing.  Roses are heavy feeders and prefer a pH of 6.5 – 7.0, but can tolerate a more alkaline (higher pH) soil, provided the nutrients they need are available.  Testing the soil is a very important part of keeping rose plantings healthy and blooming.  Contact the Hunt County office of Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service at 903-455-9885 for further instruction/supplies on how to do this very simple test.

Pruning Roses

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Pruning Roses by PJ LaRue Smith

The goal in pruning rose bushes is to improve the health and vigor of the bush.  Removal of dead, diseased, damaged, unproductive, or crossed canes, also assists in disease prevention.

Of particular note – a once blooming rose should NOT be pruned until AFTER it blooms in the spring.  Roses that bloom from spring until frost can be pruned before they leaf out completely.  Green canes should be pruned back to healthy, creamy white, wood.  Old garden roses (OGR’s) shrub roses, and climbers should be pruned lightly.

As with any garden chore, assembling the necessary equipment prior to beginning makes this yearly task much simpler to complete.  Standard rose pruning equipment includes the following:  (a) a sharp pair of BY-PASS pruners; (b) solid leather thorn-proof gloves (no part of which should be cloth); (c) a pruning saw, or sharp pair of long-handled, BY-PASS loppers (to trim away large diameter canes); (d) a trash can for debris (both what has been cut off and what may be lying below the plant); (e) a good whet stone to keep the pruners/loppers sharp (dull blades damage canes and tend to be a hazard for the operator); (f) appropriate footwear for working in the garden (sandals and flip-flops don’t protect from thorns, ants, or the accidentally dropped pair of pruners); (g) long-sleeved shirt and jeans; and (h) stocked first-aid kit (complete with tweezers for picking out the “thorn in the flesh”).

“Opening up the bush” to allow for greater air flow, requires the cutting out of interior crossed canes, and cutting above an outward facing bud eye.  A “bud eye” looks like a little smile with a nose above it and is where a leaf was attached last year.  New growth will originate from the “nose” of the bud eye and grow in the direction that it is pointing.  The strongest new growth on a cane originates at the cut end, therefore, cutting to the outside facing bud eye directs the new growth outward and upward.  This increases airflow through the bush and deters fungal growth.  Pruning cuts should be made approximately 1/4” above the bud eye at a 45° angle with the peak directly above the bud eye.

When to prune?  In the Hunt County area, the optimum time to prune is the first two weeks of March.  However, late freezes or mild winters can shift the timeline a week or so in either direction.  If you had a problem with disease in your rose garden last year, particularly blackspot, then you must remove and dispose of ALL trimmed material and any leaves that may be on the ground.

If your roses were free of disease, then cuttings can be made from the rose material that has been pruned off – provided what’s been pruned is healthy material (no brown in the middle).  The fast and easy way of taking advantage of this plant material is to take a large nail, poke a hole in the ground (on the shadow side of the bush), slide an 8” rose piece in (leave one-half to one-third exposed above-ground), gently pack the soil down, replace the mulch around it, and lightly water in.  (Cuttings should be “stuck” IMMEDIATELY after they are cut.)  Keep the area around the cutting moist, but not wet.  When new growth is strong and healthy, the cutting can be removed and potted for later placement in a new location.  If the cutting turns brown, it is dead.  Simply remove and dispose of it.  There are other, more precise, methods for making rose cuttings, but that is a topic for another day.  Enjoy the spring weather and watch out for those thorns!

 

EarthKind Roses

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EarthKind Roses by PJ LaRue Smith

Consulting Rosarians (an American Rose Society certification for those who have extensive knowledge in growing roses) hear one statement more than any other from a rose lover who’s not growing roses, “I have always loved roses, but I just can’t seem to grow them!”  That statement will undoubtedly spur the CR (Consulting Rosarian), to begin asking questions about their previous rose growing attempts.  (i.e. planting location, soil type, problems experienced, etc.)   Before the Earth-Kind® program was established, personal experience was often the sole basis for recommending a particular rose variety to someone new to growing roses.  Today, CR’s can recommend – with confidence, roses bearing the Earth-Kind® designation to those who love roses, but had little or no previous success growing them.

So what is an Earth-Kind® rose?  According to Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, “Earth-Kind is a special designation given to select rose cultivars by the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service through the Earth-Kind landscaping program. It is based on the results of extensive research and field trials and is awarded only to those roses demonstrating superior pest tolerance, combined with outstanding landscape performance.”

Therein lies the beauty of Earth-Kind® roses – they have already been “proven” to grow well in Texas, under a variety of conditions and temperatures.  These selections will still need to have their basic needs met – 6 -8 hours of sunlight; soil with adequate drainage; sufficient water for the first year (to get established); and 4 – 6 inches of mulch.  However, unlike other, less adaptable cultivars, once established, Earth-Kind® roses will continue to bloom and flourish with little or no fertilization, pruning, or spraying.  As a CR myself, let me clarify that Earth-Kind® roses do enjoy a little TLC now and then, however, they do not REQUIRE it in order to be a beautiful addition to the landscape.

Currently there are 23 Earth-Kind® designated rose varieties:  Belinda’s Dream, Caldwell Pink (aka “Pink Pet”), Carefree Beauty, Cecile Brunner, Climbing Pinkie, Ducher, Duchesse de Brabant, Else Poulsen, Georgetown Tea, Knock Out®, La Marne, Marie Daly, Mme. Antoine Mari, Monsieur Tillier (added 2011), Mrs. Dudley Cross (added 2011), Mutabilis, New Dawn, Perle d’Or, Reve d’Or, Sea Foam, Souvenir de St. Anne’s, Spice, and The Fairy.

Many of these varieties are on display at the Heritage Garden (maintained by Hunt County Master Gardeners) located next to the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension office at 2217 Washington Street in Greenville.  Stop by and see how these varieties grow in this area, and while there, don’t forget to look at all of the other fascinating plants that are included in the garden.

Wanting more information on Earth-Kind® roses?  Texas A&M has a website dedicated to the Earth-Kind Roses .  Additional cultivars that have completed (and passed) the rigorous eight year testing process are announced early in a given year, so keep the aforementioned website handy for future updates. (Note: 2011’s cultivars, Monsieur Tillier and Mrs. Dudley Cross have not yet been added to this page.  However, Chamblee’s Rose Nursery’s website – http://www.chambleeroses.com, has a listing of all the above-mentioned varieties as well as photos and growing information for each one.)

Pruning Roses

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Pruning Roses by PJ LaRue Smith

What is the purpose behind pruning roses?  To improve the health and vigor of the bush by removing dead, diseased, damaged, or unproductive canes and opening the bush up to allow for air flow in order to assist in natural disease prevention.  Understanding these two primary purposes can act as a guide in the technical part of pruning roses.

Some exceptions to pruning a rose bush need to be mentioned before proceeding.  If the bush only blooms on old wood (i.e. blooms once a year in the spring or summer) then it is NOT to be pruned until AFTER it blooms).  Healthy wood (a creamy white color on the inside) on repeat blooming climbers should be pruned lightly.  Old garden roses (OGRs) and Shrub roses should be pruned lightly as well.

Before making the first cut on any bush, assemble the necessary equipment.  Standard rose pruning equipment includes, but is not limited to:  (a) sharp pair of BY-PASS pruners (not the anvil type that tends to crush the canes); (b) solid leather thorn-proof gloves (no part of which should be cloth); (c) either a pruning saw, or sharp pair of long-handled, BY-PASS loppers (to trim away large diameter canes); (d)  trash can for debris (both what has been cut off and what may be lying below the plant); (e) good whet stone to keep the pruners/loppers sharp (dull blades damage canes and tend to be a hazard for the operator); (f) appropriate footwear for working in the garden (sandals and flip-flops don’t protect from thorns, ants, or the accidentally dropped pair of pruners); (g) long-sleeved shirt and jeans (did I mention roses have thorns?); and (h) stocked first-aid kit (complete with tweezers for picking out the “thorn in the flesh”).

“How to cut” requires a little rose anatomy lesson and remembering the second purpose listed above.  In order to “open up  the bush” one has to cut above an outward facing bud eye.  Since there are likely no leaves left, this would be where the leaves were attached.  This looks like a little smile with a nose above it.  New growth will originate from the “nose” of the bud eye and grow in the direction it is pointing.  If the bud eye faces the inside of the bush, then that is the direction it will grow.  Cutting to an inside facing bud eye will close up the bush instead of opening it up.  The cut should be approximately 1/4” above the bud eye at a 45° angle with the peak above the bud eye.

Climate determines the best time to prune roses in the spring.  For the north Hunt County area, this would be the end of the first week in March, for the southern half of the county, around the first of March.  Understand that these are general dates, and if you haven’t yet pruned the garden’s roses this spring, the window is still open to do so.  Be sure to remove and dispose of (not in the compost pile) all trimmed material and any leaves or rose pieces on the ground as they can harbor disease and insect pests.

At the time of pruning, fertilize the roses lightly (per soil testing), add more mulch as needed, and begin the year’s spray program for disease if you are so inclined.  The fungicides that are available to the home gardener are preventative, not curative, and must be applied prior to the outbreak of disease.  If spraying is begun at pruning time, and old diseased plant parts are removed from around the bushes, the incidence of disease can be significantly lowered.

PJ LaRue Smith is a master gardener in Hunt County.